Sebastian gear box oil

FYI, the use of detergent oil appears to have been suggested for total loss oiling systems where it is felt that the detergent oil might be more effective in flushing out impurities and varnishes, but I did not see any recommendations for use in recirculating oil systems (that do not use filters). The oils these days are much better than what was available in years past, and for a low speed lathe I think having the proper viscosity for the operating temperature is the most important factor. Often with a 30W engine oil when used in a lathe, it proves too viscous and the bearing will heat up. Engine oils are designed for much higher operating temperatures for their rated viscosity, vs. gearbox circulating oils and hydraulic oils. Synthetic oils can be a problem with older seals and will often leak more, I have used synthetic oils in a high speed mill head and did increase the top RPM and the bearing ran significantly cooler, but in my gear head lathe I use ISO68 circulating oil rated for both gears and hydraulic systems. Wearing out the oil/failure is not an issue as opposed to moisture contamination over time, thus changing the oil annually. I think this may be a contributing factor to the smell as well as the oil degrading with time gets that gym/bathroom smelly stench.

Lubricants to use on the moving parts of a lathe???? - Page 3 - The Home Machinist!

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Re: Lubricants to use on the moving parts of a lathe????​

I don't dispute the information of this thread. Mr. Knox wouldn't be a guru if this wasn't taken out of context. We have learned here that it is a "total loss" type lubrication. I would think this is but a step to flood out impurities and Then the proper non-detergent be used. Heck, folks would use a mix of kerosene in engines for a bit, just to get the gunk out.
There is no reason for this to be any argument..
 
I would never use an automotive gear oil in a machine tool; EP oils especially have ingredients in them that erode yellow metals, and there is no need or benefit to use extreme pressure lubricants with anything but but hypoid gearsets. I once saw a worm gear set completely worn out on a bottling machine in less than a year because someone filled it with EP oil when the gear was replaced.
 
Oil:

Make sure you have enough
Make sure it's the right kind
Change it on a regular basis

In that order IMHO.

John
 
I have been putting Vactra 2 way oil in Headstocks for 50+ years and never had an issue. Way oil is sticky and it does not run off the gears or run out of bearings. When it starts up oil is lubricating right away. If you had black mud in the bottom then use some kerosene or diesel fuel to rinse like was suggested. I would not run it. Just pour it in, let it set in there overnight, stir it up and drain it. I also agree, make a gasket for the cover. Use Permatex soft to attach the gasket to the underside of the cover and as the one guy said check for lubrication holes so you don't cover them. I also would NEVER put motor oil in a lathe.
 
Richard King 2 said:
I have been putting Vactra 2 way oil in Headstocks for 50+ years and never had an issue. Way oil is sticky and it does not run off the gears or run out of bearings. When it starts up oil is lubricating right away. If you had black mud in the bottom then use some kerosene or diesel fuel to rinse like was suggested. I would not run it. Just pour it in, let it set in there overnight, stir it up and drain it. I also agree, make a gasket for the cover. Use Permatex soft to attach the gasket to the underside of the cover and as the one guy said check for lubrication holes so you don't cover them. I also would NEVER put motor oil in a lathe.
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I quite agree Rich, I have used in my Regal Leblond lathe's headstick and apron for likely nearly 40 years now, and in several other machines such as mills, grinders, my shaper, what have you ---- multigrade (detergent) will hold particles in suspension, and without filtering systems, all that stuff continues to circulate through the moving parts to their detriment.
 
I was able to find SAE30, non-detergent comrpessor oil. Sheldon's manual for their Sebastian (slightly younger than mine) called for 30wt, so I figure I'm good.

When I drained what was in there, the initial part was watery, brown goo. Oil, being lighter than water, floats to the top. All the water was sealed air-tight in the bottom. Not able to promote rust on anything since it is sealed off, but is able to rot the oil. The top portion still looks clean and nice, because I hadn't run it enough to stir up the nasty stuff from the bottom. Note to self: When the oil is clean, you can see the bottom of the gearbox.

Didn't really know how much to fill it, but two gallons resulted in the bottom of the spindle bearings being covered. Now, I find that the seal on the spindle nose is leaking. Either I added two much, or the seal was just dry rotted. My money is on the latter.
 
Shotgun said:
I was able to find SAE30, non-detergent comrpessor oil. Sheldon's manual for their Sebastian (slightly younger than mine) called for 30wt, so I figure I'm good.

When I drained what was in there, the initial part was watery, brown goo. Oil, being lighter than water, floats to the top. All the water was sealed air-tight in the bottom. Not able to promote rust on anything since it is sealed off, but is able to rot the oil. The top portion still looks clean and nice, because I hadn't run it enough to stir up the nasty stuff from the bottom. Note to self: When the oil is clean, you can see the bottom of the gearbox.

Didn't really know how much to fill it, but two gallons resulted in the bottom of the spindle bearings being covered. Now, I find that the seal on the spindle nose is leaking. Either I added two much, or the seal was just dry rotted. My money is on the latter.
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If my experience with the several gear head lathes can be relied on, having the oil level above the bottom of the bearings is way too much, the oil level should be just above the bottom of the larger gears, where it can be thrown around to lube all the other parts in the gearbox, too much oil can cause overheating and failure of antifriction bearings, which need only a small amount of oil Many lathes have no real seals on the spindle, only laberinth arrangements to exclude chips from the bearings. Chips and abrasive matter would quickly destroy shaft seals on machine tools.
 
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