Seeking drill bit and bit sharpener recommendations...

I just got a 20% off HF coupon via email... the 115 piece cobalt set is just $88 with the coupon code. They also have a 13 pc HSS set for $3.99, regularly $22. Getting both at these prices. And the drill doctor from Amazon for $128 w free prime shipping. Thanks for all the great replies!
 
auto.pilot...
I think you'll like the Drill Dr. I have the 750 and so far have had good results.
It's like anything else that is designed to sharpen drill bits... it takes a little practice getting used to.
Good luck... Bill W.
 
Not sure what various types of work you get into, but a small set of left hand bits can be quite handy for getting broken off screws out of holes. Often if when you are drilling the hole for the extractor, the broken off piece will just unscrew itself while drilling. 13 piece set or less is all you need.

David
 
auto.pilot said:
My primary work is done at a maker space (Techshop). Finding a sharp drill bit is a constant source of frustration. I'd like to invest in a quality set of bits (standard size) and a bit sharpening tool. I am primarily working in aluminum and steel. Would appreciate any recommendations, since there are so many options.

Thanks

Jim
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I have been using Drill Doctor for years. Does a great job, when the drill bit is loaded properly.
 
auto.pilot said:
I'd like to invest in a quality set of bits (standard size) and a bit sharpening tool. Would appreciate any recommendations
Thanks

Jim
Click to expand...

Get M42 bits , they're only a little more money and hold up ALOT better . There is a guy i've been buying them from quite a while, he is Drill Hog on ebay . The guy is very reasonable , and all lifetime warranty . You probably know this but lots of bits say "Cobalt" ...if they don't specifically say "M42 Cobalt" don't buy them thinking they're good cobalt bits. Good bits will specifically say what they are , like HSS , M2 or M42 . I use my bits in the mill , but I also "beat" on them up under a truck or up a pole with a hand drill and no cutting fluid . The M42 have held up the best , and they sharpen in a Drill Doctor . As for the drill doctor , some do ok but i didn't have great luck with it . It sharpens bits fine , but I had hit and miss results with the sharpening being centered and/or accurate for use in the mill. I watched all the vids, no luck with drill doctor .
 
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Not taking anything at all away from those who find a Drill Doctor suits their needs just fine, and maybe holding the flag up a little for the traditionalists, there is a reason why keywords "sharpen drills" on YouTube yield Tom's video with more than 3.6 million views!
I was shown how to do this with a "rotate and tip up" technique to produce the curved back face, but I am impressed with the way 4-facet tips work, and that the sharpening technique is a whole lot easier.

Hand sharpened drills with curved back face can be ground to perform well, but each is kind of unique, never quite like the next, or the previous. Of course, it is not too hard to come across every kind of human ingenuity in making aids to help this task. Even in a woodworking context, I have to admire this one..
 
If you have a good drill sharpening situation, it almost doesn't matter where the drills themselves come from.

I second the 135º Cobalt HF bits. Very nice to not have to drill a center in the hole.

Drill grinding machines are a very nice idea, but if you want truly good results–from most machines–over a versatile range of sizes (.0625 to .500 or more) you need to learn how to do what you're doing AND spend good money on the grinder.

You really get what you pay for in terms of aftermarket service, spare parts, customer support, reliability, versatility and apparent cost/value. And I'd say you should think of paying more than $1500 if you want to even begin to get the whole kit and caboodle for a good piece of machinery.

If you can't shell out that kind of money, in my experience, you should take a week off, build the best jig/contraption you can find/dream up, and practice. Anything else is just a waste of money, but an even BIGGER waste of TIME.
 
ewkearns said:
Found one of these, years ago, that got carted back to a machinery dealer after a expo. He sold it really cheap and I've always liked the large range of capacity. Don't know what they sell for, now, but if affordable, they are highly versatile...

http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/files/91000_Drill_Grinder_Instructions_99F8C6E45E647.pdf
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I have looked many times for the Lisle drill sharpener on eBay. They occasionally show up on Ebay but for too much money. Many times I've heard guys say they're one of the best ways to sharpen a drill bit. I've had a drill doctor pro 500 for 20 years. It's the green vertical type that also comes in a 750 version. Getting the bit aligned in the holder and properly grabbed by the aligner clips is the secret to making it work properly. Once the bit is tightened in the holder look at the holder fingers and make sure they are not tilted by slightly loosening the holder until they straighten out.

Roy
 
Never purchased a complete set yet, but I should. I have many Huot indexes with a hodge podge of drill types and boxes of others.
I like Guhring, C-L and PTD. I recently saw a lot of Guhring drills on Ebay for $30.00, I jumped and when I got them, they were all
very, very expensive drills. 14 Gurhing solid carbide drills, larger metrics. Brand new in their boxes. I really like Guhring. My fav's., Taps too.

I don't think Guhring sells sets, so I would look at Chicago Latrobe and Hertel, PTD and maybe Viking and Triumph. I have one Viking but haven't used it yet.
Msc has sales on these sets all the time. Sign up for the newsletter and catalogs.
 
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