seized spindle bearings

Hmm, no oilers on this machine.
That was going to be my next question once I had the spindle out and had a good look whether grease or oiler points would be worth it.
I'm pretty sure mine is the same and there are no oilers/grease points. On mine it's easy to take off the cover that has the spindle gearing etc on it off the headstock and you can see the bearings. There's no way to retain the grease or to drill a gallery to install a zirk to grease it with. With the right grease I don't think it's necessary. It would seem the new headstock for the Grizzly 9x19 has oilers so maybe they updated?
 
The pulley came of easy but the gear wheel was a bit of a struggle.
bearing-removal-1.jpg
The first shock was when the shield popped off with a hell of a bang
bearing-removal-2.jpg
The rest went ok with no challenges.
As you can see at the chuck end of the spindle all the grease had dried out and the rollers are pitted with wear marks in both races.
bearing-removal-3.jpg
Now I have to get the inner race off the chuck end of the spindle, I dont see two screwdrivers being able to accomplish this. Of course if I had a lathe I could turn up a puller bracket.
Looking at the headstock I can see where I could easily drill and install grease nipples to pack into the gap between each bearing and its inner shield.
It looks as if this is what was designed in but never got done.
 
Great progress and it looks like nothing major got hurt. As long as you can find the necessary bearings and races, you should be back in business soon.

For the last race, I learned a trick, from the internet of course, that might work for you. If you have a welder you could run a small bead around the inside of the race and when it cools the race will shrink and just fall out. I did this on my skidsteer and it worked great. Just be very careful not to run the welder too hot and melt through the race.
 
On well designed machines there are a couple of notches in the housing to hammer out the cups. If they aren't there, it's good karma to grind some. As I said, mine were on the loose side.
 
Everything is out of the headstock, the cups popped out with a drift with no problems.
The firm one is the roller cage and cup on the spindle, that as tight as #######.
Just thinking out loud here, If the new bearings are installed without the internal tin shields I can remove the gear/speed chart on the front when required and pack more grease into both bearings with my fingers. Thats easier and quicker than drilling and fitting grease nipples.
 
Mine doesn't have the grease shields, I can see exactly if and how much grease is in there. It's pretty easy to squish some more grease in there. Last time I was in there that's what I did. YMMV.
 
I would think a properly packed bearing with the proper grease and preload correctly should outlast the operator. You have a good chance of contaminating the bearing by squishing some grease around the washers.
 
What's the plan to remove the bearing form the spindle? Stand the spindle in dry ice and heat the bearing with a torch?

Anonymous!
 
This is nerve racking, when I ran into a stuck inner race , I would use a cut wheel on a mini=grinder and cut a slot. Of course not cutting into the shaft. With a block of wood on the back side to soften, and a cold chisel to point load, I'll give it a swat. Bearing metal is brittle and will 9 times out of 10 it will crack at the cut. Since it is brittle, it can shatter, wear safety glasses or shield. You may want to do two 180 degree cuts, but then it gets twice as nerve racking
 
The bearing is garbage. I would start with supporting the cage and trying pressing the spindle out. See what happens. Cage pops than you deal with the inner race and press off. Or cut off what have you. Delicately either way
 
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