Shars 0-1" thread micrometer review.

[woodchucker]

The micrometer comes in a nice plastic case. The function of the ratchet is on the big barrel and the small one is direct drive .. meaning no ratchet. Opposite what we are normally used to, but it actually makes it faster to turn.. so kudos to them. It is a very smooth working mechanism. Very happy with it's feel.
If you are an occasional user of a thread micrometer this is a great deal on ebay, less so direct from Shars.
You zero the anvils by loosening the left side lock, setting zero on the barrel, and using your finger to push then end of the fixed anvil into the other anvil. Then lock the left anvil. Done.
This reads both Imperial and Metric. The anvils are marked, some are harder to read, but with a magnifier or cheater glasses not so bad. I recommend you take some time and a pair of tweezers and pull out the slugs in the bottom of the anvil holes. It makes them sit nicely without falling out.
I put the slotted anvil in the left side so when the barrel turns the slot does not turn.. I recommend doing this.

There is one thing about this micrometer that I do not like, but it's a minor issue. Just a little confusing at times.
The major size lines 0,25,50,75 show up before you reach that reading. My Starrett and Mitutoyo's do not do this. So I am confused at times. BUT this is a minor, you can quickly see that you haven't reached that reading, and adjust your brain.

This shows the 25 being uncovered before we reach 0, it's visible but we are not there yet.

This is what happens if you don't remove the slugs at the bottom.

Slugs of foam removed, and I took the time to label the positions using a ptouch.

 

[SLK001]

I have that same one. I, too, like using it. Beats the he?? out of using wires.

 

[llamatrails]

Re: the lines at 0,25,50,75

The hooked tool in the case at the bottom left is used to rotate the barrel. There should be a hole on the back side, 180 degrees from the linear scale. Hook the tool in the hole like a pin wrench and you will be able to rotate the barrel to your liking.

 

[extropic]

<snip This reads both Imperial and Metric. snip>

I don't understand what you mean by that statement.
I'm not familiar with conventional (non-electronic) micrometer that reads in both Imperial and Metric units.
Please provide a model/catalog number so I can research it.

 

[SLK001]

I don't understand what you mean by that statement.
I'm not familiar with conventional (non-electronic) micrometer that reads in both Imperial and Metric units.
Please provide a model/catalog number so I can research it.

What he means is that it can measure any 60º thread, either Imperial or metric. However, it is only marked in SAE units, so to convert to metric, you're going to have to do some math.

 

[seasicksteve]

I have a B&S that is similar. The shars appears to lack the thimble that allows adjustment of the anvil with the v. This is a nice feature allows for a quick zero of the mic to a standard when switching anvils. Still appears to be a very solid measuring tool and it doesn't require an octopus to operate it

 

[devils4ever]

I have the same mic and love it. It's SO much easier than the wire method. Worth the cost.

 

[woodchucker]

Re: the lines at 0,25,50,75

The hooked tool in the case at the bottom left is used to rotate the barrel. There should be a hole on the back side, 180 degrees from the linear scale. Hook the tool in the hole like a pin wrench and you will be able to rotate the barrel to your liking.

Not really. Since I am zeroing it, its not a factor. The lines are just a little short of where they need to go. On a conventional mike that would work to zero it. Since the fixed anvil moves, that tool does nothing other than position the zero line to where you would like it.. for me 90 to the C is perfect.

 

[Janderso]

I have the same mic and love it. It's SO much easier than the wire method. Worth the cost.

I was so frustrated with thise #3(=%@# wires, I bought the Shars 0-1 and 1-2” mics.
Just need to figure out how to calculate/use them

 

[llamatrails]

Not really. Since I am zeroing it, its not a factor. The lines are just a little short of where they need to go. On a conventional mike that would work to zero it. Since the fixed anvil moves, that tool does nothing other than position the zero line to where you would like it.. for me 90 to the C is perfect.

Guess I still don't see the issue.

Barrel scale at 90, check.
Turn thimble to line up zero as you prefer, dead on the linear scale.
Lock the thimble.
Push movable anvil in from the left to touch the fixed anvil on the right, lock it in place.
Calibration done. Of course, if there is backlash, well it ain't no Starrett ...

Works for me.

Or, are you saying the lines on the scale are not spaced correctly, 0.5" isn't 0.5" ?