Sheldon Lathe dismantling support

pvoncken

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Hi everyone,

I'm restoring (read: giving a good clean, de-rust, paint and lube) to my recently purchased Sheldon lathe (EXL-56B).

The lathe is in fine working order, but neglected for a while. So I've found the user manual and read a couple of forums + youtube video's in order to dismantle the lathe. The only thing I'm not completely confident about is removing the lead screw. Its screwed on and hold in place by a tapered pin (if I'm correct), but my previous attempts of removing it are not successful and I don't want to ruin any brass bearings or worse.

The main reason why I need to remove the lead screw is because the apron looks horrible + its easier to clean and paint the main body.

Steps until now. Finding the right side of de pin and jamming on it with a light hammer in combination with an old center point. I then grinded one side of the tapered pin to make sure nothing is preventing it to move.. but no luck.

What would your advice be? And how hard can I hit such a pin without damaging?

Thanks in advance, Paul
PXL_20210113_213753213.jpgPXL_20210113_213827306.jpgPXL_20210113_213836782.jpg
 
Drive out from the small side, some heat may help.
 
You are kind of on the right track, but you should file the pin smooth and flush with the shaft on both sides. This makes it easier to identify the small end and insures that you don't have burrs. You are using the wrong type of punch. A center punch as you are using tends to expand the pin. Use a drift punch instead. The drift punch should be a diameter as close as possible to the diameter of the small end of the taper pin. It's also a good idea to support the shaft so you don't bend something.

Ted
 
It looks like there is a threaded piece attaching the leadscrew to the gearbox- perhaps you can loosen and remove that way? I would examine that closely
-Mark
 
Thanks for the responses! I'll report back on my findings. @mark Removing it from the other side seems impossible on a closer inspection, but it would have been a good option.
 
It is a tapered pin. No need to unthread the lock nut unless you take the gear box apart.
 
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