Sherline + Igauging Linear Dro; Possible?

Cables Managed:
lathe-18.jpg

I had a couple of false-starts with the flashing/cover using aluminum sheet. Finally decided to switch up to plastic. This gives two benefits: A) I can easily see if something jams up the tracks and B) I can see where to drill the darn screw-holes :)
lathe-19.jpg
Actually used the lid of an empty screw box.

And here she is, complete, with axes labels.
lathe-20.jpg


I'm very happy with how this turned out. Learned a bunch from this process, so I suspect the mill will be a little easier in some respects.

FYI, once I get the shop cleaned up, I'm happy to measure & draw-up the brackets I fabbed before I start in on the mill. If nothing else, gives you a starting-point... Let me know.
 
I will take a set of plans, if you do them. NOt sure when I will get it done willhave to save up my mad money for a while.
 
I would go for a little bit narrower brush, prob a bit more bristle I have also wandered about a way to may waywipers for the sherline to keep it from getting in where we do not want it.
 
Hi guys. I am thinking about buying a Sherline to turn and threadt 304L and 303 stainless. Are these lathes capable of that..or is this really outside of models enevelope? Thank you for reading.
 
Hopefully this posts... I've been having a lot of trouble with the forums in the last few days:

I've personally cut 303 on my sherline lathe, and it's perfectly capable of it with the right tooling, but I generally try to avoid the harder metals because the other tooling in my shop (my baby band saw, etc) isn't up to the challenge of managing that material. The main constraint on the sherline envelope is size, and with 303, I wouldn't want to push that very far... Also keep in mind that the threading attachment for the Sherline is a manual-crank-type, so the cutting power is all in your left-arm ;)

In either case, you'll be taking lots of light cuts on stainless—you probably won't be able to hog it out like on a larger machine.

In Other News, I managed to get all 3 DROs installed on my mill. On vacation right now, but will try to post pics when I get back.
 
Thank you. Enjoy your vacation, and congratulations on the DROs!
 
Finally back home and up and running, and my HM account is working again. Yay!

Will post pictures and a write-up tomorrow of my DRO installation on my 2000-series mill.

Also, for anyone who downloaded the drawings I did for the 4400 lathe, I have some revisions to the drawings that I'll upload tomorrow as well.
 
OK... so here are pics from my DRO conversion for my Sherline 2000 mill:

Brackets for mounting the Y-axis track:
mill-1.jpg

For the X-axis, the track has to mount to the cross-slide. On the hand-wheel side, we can use the 10-32 stop-screw to hold the end of the bracket. But to get full-travel on the left-hand side, we need a bracket to mount to the table. In this pic, I'm using my milling vice mounted to my lathe cross-slide with a headstock riser to drill out the mounting holes in the table:
mill-2.jpg

The next few pics show the assembly of the transducer head brackets which will attach to the X/Y saddle. Note the large hole in the first picture below... this allows for access to the gib-adjustment set screw without removing the brackets:
mill-3.jpg
mill-4.jpg
mill-5.jpg
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X & Y transducers mounted:
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Tapping holes in the Z-axis assembly for the top bracket:
mill-10.jpg

Top bracket:
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Z-axis track and transducer mounted:
mill-12.jpg

After some experimentation, I realized I don't need a bottom bracket for the Z-axis since the track mostly just hangs straight down. Not having a bottom bracket allows me to keep the ram knuckle clear of attachments, preserving the full range of motion.

Cable-keeping, & dangling DRO track:
mill-14.jpg

I removed and modified the arm from a cheap micro-magnetic base to mount the displays with a custom rig built from some OpenBeam extrusions. This allows me to re-orient the DRO displays vs. any orientation of the mill spindle:
mill-13.jpg
 
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