Sherline Mill Hand Wheels?

[eeler1]

Just picked up a Shoreline 5410 mini mill. Cleaning it up, prior owner not much for cleaning, or lubing for that matter. I'd like to take the hand wheels off and clean the screws, but am having a hard time figuring out how the wheels come off. Parts diagram at Sherline shows a socket head screw, but my wheel is solid with no opening to get at it. Suggestions appreciated.

 

[mikey]

Loosen the wheel that locks the zero-set collar and turn the collar until it reveals the set screw through the hole in the collar. Insert allen wrench and loosen.

 

[eeler1]

Thanks Mikey, that works. I was looking at the parts diagram sideways, I guess.

I also put up a video on it;

Also, on the matter of spindle speeds, how do you folks keep track of rpm? I suppose I could just start slow and speed up until it complains.

 

[mikey]

You have a headstock riser block, which is handy for giving your mill a bit more reach in Y. The right angle attachment handily holds a live center and the rotary table will mount independently so you can turn a shaft between them. The two morse taper things with the threaded ends allow you to attach a drill chuck to the headstock (MT1) or the tailstock of the lathe (MT0). The thing with the thin bar is a wood turning tool rest for the lathe.

That Rotary table is a good one. Small but precise and very useful. The small collets fit the Sherline end mill set or any end mill with the appropriate size shank. They are quite accurate and will be more so than the end mill holder for small end mills.

Use a tach to find speeds and mark the dial so you know how fast the mill is running. That mill is far more capable than you might think. Your working envelope is, of course, smaller but the precision to which you can work is better than you imagine right now. Most of us who use this mill push the envelope quite a bit but I think you will find it is a capable machine for smaller parts.

You got a good buy. I think you can convert the leadscrews and handwheels to imperial for fairly low cost if that is what you need.

 

[kvt]

eeler1, I have a 5400, as well, I would take the whole thing apart and clean, lube and check it. replace any small parts that need to be replaced. If it is older an you need to you can change out the backlash adjusting nuts, etc. Looks like you got most of the stuff to go with it, right off the bat. It looks like you have one of the older ones which do not have thesocket head screw en the end of the lead screw. So to take the hand wheels off is like the others said, look for the hole in the zero adjustment by loosening the small thumb screw on the wheel, then turning it till you see the set screw, take the alen and release. if the person has tightened the set screw to much, it may be hard to take off as it will have slightly damaged the end of the lead screw. But it will come off with a little work. I know from experience. I did not see a gage in the picture, But you will need to tram it so that the motor is square to the table. Good luck. I have used mine and am still learning but they will do nice work. Keep an eye on ebay for extras and parts. Some times cheaper than direct from the company, Also A2Z and others make aftermarket stuff and larger cross slides etc.

 

[eeler1]

Thanks for all the info and advice. I'm about half way cleaning it up, getting to know it and how it's put together. And can't seem to help it, I'm already looking at the Sherline catalog!!

 

[mikey]

I meant to mention a few things. Consider buying the fly cutter from Sherline that uses the DNMG inserts. It works FAR better than those you have, albeit with a smaller cutting radius. Also, if you have a need for a boring head avoid the Sherline one; it is too small and fiddly to use. A used Criterion S-1-1/2 from ebay works better and is just about the right size for this mill. I saw one not long ago for about $13.00 more than a new Sherline head. You will need an adapter to fit it to the Sherline spindle; they are available from Little Machine Shop at low cost.

Also, run to the hardware store and buy a few 3/4-16 nuts. Mill them to size and use them between the spindle whatever you mount in the spindle, like a drill chuck, boring head or flycutter and use that nut to pop the tool out instead of banging on the draw bar. It is kinder to the bearings and you won't jar the head out of alignment.

I would also highly recommend you purchase the Z-axis backlash nut to fit your screw. It allows you to dial out most of the backlash in the screw, a very useful thing.

 

[kvt]

Also check out the You Tub videos a couple the do a lot of stuff with and for the Sherline are, Aykut Cantürk, and Luiz Ally I have a couple of projects on the list from ones I've seen on their stuff. And these little lathes and mills can handle a bit of work, or at least from what I have seen so far.
Mikey, Agree with the 3/4-16 nuts. and the z-axis backlash setup. but also I have seen on one of the Videos how to make a larger Flycutter that uses the which ever insert you build the holder for. It is a 3 to 4 inch one, I have it on my list as it allows you to do a bit wider material in one pass, and even saw one where it had holes in it where you put the balance weight on the other side. It screws on the spindle like a chuck does.

 

[mikey]

I agree, Luiz's flycutter and similar ones are good ideas but most guys with new to them mills will likely tackle that later. In the meantime, the Sherline carbide flycutter is one of their best tools and is far superior to the weedwacker type. I have both and there is no comparison.