[4]

Shop build beast of a chop saw

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[10] Like what you see?
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I started this build couple of months ago thinking i'll finish it in a week or two so i continued writing about it in the question & answer section where i had couple of questions, but because is drag on for so long i've decided to move it in the project section.
 

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#2
The first part i had for this build is this very old industrial 10 Hp motor its 3 phase 380v which is standard 3 phase power here in europe, it already had a good size pulley i plan to use in this build.
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#3
Then i bought and gathered all the materials for the table for this project, i bought 80 x 54 x 7 millimeters piece of diamond plate which i plan to use with the smooth side up for the work table of the cut off saw, then i bought couple of square tubing to use for reinforcement, i also managed to clean off the workbench and thru the week when i have time i build the table top with all the reinforcements.
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#4
Couple of days ago i had an hour to spare, so i decided to finish welding the legs to the tabletop, it took little longer than i thought but got it finished and started planning, the pivot point, i have this M24 bolt and nut that should be the perfect size but may end up making a new bolt because of the rust on this one, i'm also debating should i use those 12mm thick triangles or cut the 25mm thick plate and use it instead.
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#5
I like your "pineapple" motor
 
#7
Tap tap is this thing on?

late last night after finishing some work on the lathe i decided to do some work on this build, next couple of thing i need to make so i can move forward machining related, first of which was to drill two triangles perfectly in the same place without a drill press, so i clean up all the sides with an angle grinder and then i moved the number 3 jaw 2 steps down, wich let me clamp the plates of centre, started with a center drill which broke, then a couple more drill bits broke but managed to drill them straight and did little clean up on the bolt i plan to use, i'm considering should i drill the centre of the bolt for greasing the joint or the barrel, cross drilling a bolt should distribute the grease better, any advice?
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#8
Today i had some time free so i continued machining parts for this saw, started with an thick wall rusty pipe, clean up the end and made an thin pass on the outside.
Then switched to an boring bar and made couple of clean up passes then i cut a bearing seat, then i looked around for an tool for cutting spring clips on the inside and i had non so i made this one by simply welding a piece of HSS to piece of round stock and cut an groove, also repeat the process on the other side and made couple of passes with some sandpaper to clean it for welding.
Then i moved to making the barrel for the hinge to mount the whole assembly to the table simple clean up pass and a hole in the middle.
Then i moved to cleaning and modifying the hinge bolt, it seems to been made by hand because of all the hummer marks, i did a lot of falling with and hand file while it was turning on the lathe to clean it up, also cut the end flat and drill and tap a hole for a grease fitting, there will be a lot of weight on this hinge, the motor alone weights 6-70kg so i'll be greasing the hinge regularly.
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#9
Today i had an hour to spare, so i started on the spindle for this build. After work i went to the steel yard, there wasn't much chose in 32 mm size, so this is 4140 or 4150, machining it it definitely is harder steel then hot rolled, first thing i did is to check it for straightness and is with in 0,10 mm which is not a surprising, because this yard take really good care of it steel. Started by taking one deep cut to get ti close to the bearing size and then cut the rest down to 20 mm then came back and finish the bearing jornal, i did most of the machining with a live centre supporting the workpiece. Then i setup my DIY threading attachment in my tailstock and treated it for M20x1.5, i will be using a double nut setup for safety, more to come.
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#10
Today after work i still had some energy left to do little more machining for this build, first i marked the spindle and chuck up and indicated it. Then i parted it off, cut the side, centre drill it and supported with live centre, then cut it down to 30 mm for the bearing, but made it slip fit and wanted to make it a press fit, so i did little knurling on the bearing side to make it a press fit, now the spindle is finished i need to make an belt pulley which i plan to machine on the spindle itself, more to come.
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#11
Today i had very little time to spare but i did managed to do little machining on the lathe, started with an 60mm small piece of softer steel, it was centre drilled so i started with smaller drill bit and drill it all the way thru and up to 29mm, then used a small boring bar to get it to a tight slip fit with the spindle. Then i relieved one side and cut an o ring groove which i plan to install on both sides to keep the dust out and protect the bearings. i'll fix this pulley blank to the spindle with couple of dal set screws and i'll do the cutting of belt drive grove on the spindle it self. DSC_0111.JPG DSC_0114.JPG DSC_0115.JPG DSC_0118.JPG
 
#12
Today i found about an hour of free time so i started on the arm that will hold the motor and the spindle, first i measured and marked than i used an angle grinder to cut and form the end to fit over the piece of pipe i machined earlier, the square tubing i used is is 3,5 mm wall and i'll use two pieces in parallel for added stiffness for precision and strength.
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#13
Looks like I'd be to weak to build it , good and stout that's for sure . What size wheels are you planning on using ?? Looks like it could run a 24" diameter abrasive and never even slow down.
 
#14
I plan to make it to accept 400mm cutting stone, but most common size of stones here is 230mm and 330mm, my ambition is to make it precise and easy to use, ( work horse).
 
#15
Lately i've been working close to 80 hours a week at work which doesn't leave me much free time to work on my projects but i did managed to get some work done on the arm for this chop saw. I spend some time clamping, tack welding and checking to get the bearing housing 90 degrees to the arm also to keep the two tubes from twisting, welded them at 160a which is the max of my mig, took one brake to let the mig gun cool down. I did check it after it cooled down and is straight, not bad for couple of hours work.
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#16
Today i had some work on the lathe, after i finish it wanted to fix this belt pulley blank on the spindle, first had to chamfer the end, it pushed some material when parting it off. Then i took it in the big garage to place it and drill it for set screws, i plan to run 3 or 6 harden locating set screws but my threading tap fail on the first hole, so i stopped tomorrow i'll get another tap and continued, i'm debating should i cut the v belt grove at 38 degrees or 40 degrees.
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#17
Today i continued with threading the holes and fixing the blank to the spindle, i used some super high quality hardened set screws. When i fixed it in place i chucked it up in my lathe, also i supported the other end with a live centre then i first cut 4mm groove close to the bottom. Then i rotated my tailstock and started cutting one side then rotated it again to cut the other side, its not hard just takes time to get both sides same, i used a cheap china grooving insert holder and a fresh sandvik insert.
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#18
Today decided to make the flanges for the stones i can accurately measure where to place the entire assembly, but before i could measure for them i press in the bearings and the spindle. Then i took my measurements and looked around for material, i decided to make the flanges same size as the bearing carrier that way they can clamp on the stone tight. Only material close to this size was this old axle so i used it, i put it in my lathe's chuck, indicated it and just as i turn on the lathe i heard a loud nose which i recognised right away, to be a drive belt coming apart and hitting the cover. So i took the cover off and seen the middle belt has fell apart so i cut it off and left the rest alone, it has 4 left which should be enough till one more lets go then i'll replace all of them. After installing the cover back on the lathe i quickly made the flanges, i made two back flanges in different sizes for different stone centre bore and one front, i was filling productive at the end of the job so i grabbed my letters and numbers and stamp them so i can recognise them more easily.
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#19
Today i spent a full day in the garage, and mainly worked on this project, all the setup, measuring adjusting took alot of time also cutting and welding this thick of steel was hard work. I focused on getting it done so all the pictures are taken when i finish for the day. As you can see i made the pivot point a bit high so i can cut bigger diameter tubing, i also place it feter back so i can use stone 450mm in diameter. the electric motor is a beast, one person can't pick it up so i used my engine crane to move it around. The motor has two broken feet wich made mounting it little bit of a challenge, i had to drill and tap holes in the side to mount it on a plate which is supported also from underneath with slotted plates so i can move it backwards and forwards to tension the belt, i might need to move the motor forward because needs lots of force just to bring the blade down. I need to figure out what style of handle i'm using on it and should i run an off / on switch via motor starter on the handle it self ?
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#20
How did you decide on the balance point and drive motor position?
 
#21
How did you decide on the balance point and drive motor position?
Lots of measuring, tack welding and trying, over and over till everything lined up.
 
#22
Had a machine like that in a steel-mill I used to work at.

I have used "banjo bolts" for lubrication on motorcycles. But they were with light oil (SAE 20) under steady pressure. For your application, I would prefer "zerks" with a shot of mid-weight grease maybe every 10-20 hours use. That's just my preferences, now. I may be a little heavy handed with lubrication.

On balancing, don't worry about it. Make it work first. Then add a few weights to balance it. Much easier that way.

And congrats on the motor. I haven't seen that type since the pipe shop days. Runs forever, with only occasional checks for bearings and ground leakage. Of course, mine were 480 but that's just a difference in distribution systems.

Bill Hudson
Artificer(Ret)​
 
#23
I have used "banjo bolts" for lubrication on motorcycles. But they were with light oil (SAE 20) under steady pressure. For your application, I would prefer "zerks" with a shot of mid-w
I presume you are talking about the pivot bolt, which i've covered in previous thread, i've drilled and cross drilled also threaded M6 for zerk fitting wich i'll install and pump it with grease when the machine gets painted.
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When i went to look at the motor i didn't realize that it doesn't have a fan or that is cast iron not aluminium but the bearings wore quiet and was cheap, i started to realize something's odd when i couldn't pick it up from the trunk of my car and realized that is truly industrial motor.
 
#24
That motor is a beast!
 
#25
I've been wanting to do more work on this project but have been too busy, so i've taken the smallest job i could, that beast of a motor had a broken mounting plate for the wires, looks like someone went in with pliers and broke the bakelite insulator. Been such odd shape it wasn't easy to remake so i used some extra strong adhesive to glue it, the red tape on the sides is to hold it in place temporary then i made new bridges and install new stainless screws, the simplest job, is all i had time for.
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#27
Last couple of days i've been busy but late last night i managed to finish the simplest job, i assembled the wire plate, also started to buy and look thru my spare electrical parts to wire it, i'll need to make or found an metal electrical box as a plastic one will probably get broken or melted.
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#29
Today i spend considerable time working on this project, i started with couple of scrap rusty pieces of thick sheet metal at first i was going just to tack weld it so i can figure where to relive it for removal, but got carried away welding and had to cut it to pieces to remove it, i'll have to figure something else to make it safe also removable.
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