Shop Heating

When we upgraded our home from 60 to 200 amps I had them install an outside cutoff. That way I can work on the panel, also have an input for my generator and have a way to isolate from the grid.

John
 
he is hiring an electrician to put the sub panel in, the guy is reluctant to pull a permit , and he's a licensed electrician. That panel will be off the cut off switch by the meter. His house has an outdoor cut off switch... I have not seen that before seems weird.
I believe that is driven by having a place for the fire department to kill power before hosing down the building.
 
So got a question, my son went to get paperwork for the permits, and his local town was not helpful... surprise surprise.
He was trying to get an electrical permit for the new sub panel and another for the mini split. They want him to calculate the whole house.

Do you need a permit usually for a mini split?
I went with the MrCool DIY system, chiefly because it didn't require a certified HVAC person. I didn't need a permit for installing my mini split. I ran my own electrical and did the complete install myself.
 
I would have no problem running the electrical off the sub panel, but not putting in the sub from the cut off.
He and I will be installing the Mr Cool before the electrical guy.
 
I'm in Calgary. We get to -40 (C or F you pick) most winters, but not for long. I heat with natural gas with a 50K BTU unit

BUT

It is far more important to consider your insulation, especially your floor. Here NatGas was very cheap until a few years ago. Now I'm adding insulation in my 600 sq ft shop, as it has begun costing as much to heat it to 5C as my house to 23C (40F and 75F)
 
My latest remodel in my bathroom, I used rockwool it is way warmer than your standard insulation. I believe thats due to its density in preventing the wind from getting through it.

It has a few advantages.
The mice don't like it.
It doesn't get wet if you have a leak or flood.
I use pieces when using a torch near a finished cabinet.. it's flame retardant. I also use it to keep the heat in while heating something.
It's recycled metal slag..

Foam has the disadvantage of if it's installed incorrectly it may not cure. If it doesn't cure, it can be toxic to you. If it is done right, it's probably the best insulation but it is not as fire retardant. It is a retardent, but not AS powerful a retardent.
 
My latest remodel in my bathroom, I used rockwool it is way warmer than your standard insulation. I believe thats due to its density in preventing the wind from getting through it.
I could write a white paper on that comment.
Closed-cell foam.
Open-cell foam (although the difference is minuscule compared to open-cell foam).
Dense pack cellulose.
Rock wool.
Fiberglass.
Wood shavings.
Nothing.

The above is the general order of insulating value, but it is a lot more complicated than there is space to write here. If the wind is getting through your walls, you have bigger issues than the type of insulation, but if the wind is actually blowing through your walls, spray foam is your only option. The "wind" that you (or your contractor) might be talking about is convection. Each stud bay develops a micro convection current within the wall and the degree to which that convective current develops is dependant upon the delta between the inside and outside temperatures. This is why fiberglass loses "R" value as the outside temperature drops. Spray foam prevents this convection within the wall and therefore maintains nearly all of its "R" value as the temp drops. I could go on....

I heat my shop with wood heat since we own property that is completely wooded. A year ago I installed an 18k BTU Friederich mini-split. The air conditioning is awesome and does a wonderful job of cooling my 1300 sq ft shop. It also does a superb job of heating it, or at least taking the chill out until my wood stove is making heat. I installed the mini-split myself but had a friend (HVAC pro) come over and charge it up with refrigerant.
I also have the tubes for in-floor heat installed, but with the rising cost of propane, that option is going to sit there for the foreseeable future. I have in-floor heat in the lower level of my house and there is nothing better. I also have it in my garage so doing oil changes are almost pleasurable.

Radiant tube heaters are fantastic too, but there is a minimum distance that they can be mounted at. 12-foot ceilings would probably work but check the specs on them. No air is circulated with radiant because it heats objects, not air. Actually, heating air and moving it around is quite inefficient.
 
I updated my profile. I'm not in CA anymore. Now in Southern Oregon so a little colder in the winter and a little hotter in the summer.

I only have 60A to the shop so not sure what a heat pump would require. I'm not sure I really need AC in the shop.

My 12k unit is on a single pole 20A 120V dedicated circuit.


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So got a question, my son went to get paperwork for the permits, and his local town was not helpful... surprise surprise.
He was trying to get an electrical permit for the new sub panel and another for the mini split. They want him to calculate the whole house.

Do you need a permit usually for a mini split?

I can’t imagine why you would need one.


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