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[4]

Shop made, homemade drill press.

January Project of the Month [3]
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GoceKU

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#1
After months looking at drill presses i've decided to build my own from scratch, no sense paying couple hundred euros for a rusty piece of pipe and a head casting, all the quills are damaged beyond repair, i'm still looking and will be doing this build with parts i have laying around, i've started with making the inner shaft of the quill, started with and old mose MT5 to MT4 reduce, it was ding up on the outside but the inner taper is in perfect shape, this will allow me to use all my lathe chucks and taper drill bits, i chunk up the taper in my lathe and turn down and threaded M16, some of you can recognise
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the sliding spindle as a steering wheel column shaft from a VW golf, i don't own a mill so i could not make this part on my own, that's why i'm making like this, welded the two parts together, i'll have couple more parts to make for this part and weld to it before i machine it all at once to insure the spindle will turn straight, this is not the only project i have in the works, ill try to update it daily hope you like it and follow it.
 

tertiaryjim

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#3
I always enjoy seeing how others solve their DIY projects.
It's an area where I've mostly been poor at.
 

GoceKU

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#4
Last night i spent some time on the lathe, first i had to drill out a piece of 32 mm C45 because i could not find a pipe of the appropriate size and from the same 32 mm price i machined an extension for where the pulley will attach, i'm sure it's hard understand what this piece is and what it will do, first picture explains it good, more to come.
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GoceKU

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#5
Today i managed to weld the pieces i machined yesterday, left it to cool down slowly, as last i mounted the shaft in the lathe, and mounted indicator to check and the shaft has moved about 2 mm i'll have to straighten it before i turn it in the lathe.
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GoceKU

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#6
Today i run in my first roadblock on this project, i was expecting for the bar to move around when welded but it seems it move about 3 mm on one weld and 2,3 mm in other, i tried with a car jack to straighten it but no success, tomorrow i'll try to straightening it on my press but i don't have much hope, last time i used my press i managed to twist the frame in a pretzel and the bridge in a half moon, more to come.
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GoceKU

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#8
I'm subscribed to Keith Fenner, i've seen the demonstration he was giving at the summer bash, not sure that will work on 35mm weld, with 3mm bend.
 

chips&more

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#9
Are you sure that is the high/low spot of the bend? Your set-up to straighten is clever. But in looking at it closer, I think the weakest part or the first to bend is at the chuck arbor where it is the smallest diameter. Not sure if your live center can take that kind of side thrust/load? To straighten a shaft correctly is an art. Please be safeā€¦Dave
 
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GoceKU

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#10
This setup was only temporary, at first i thought the bend is in the middle on the weakest part, but it turns out different, i appreciate your concern about the live center , dont worry, its russian made heavy duty, i've turned massive shaft on it without problems, and i wasn't putting that much pressure with the jack.
 

Uglydog

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#11
Great work!!
Have you seen the Gingery books?
They might be helpful should you decide to build other machine tools.

Daryl
MN
 

GoceKU

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#13
I haven't seen Gingery books, I've welded it with a mig welder, but at the end spot weld all the holes thats why looks like that.
 

GoceKU

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#14
Today i had very little free time i did managed to marked where are high point and tried strengthening on my destroyed press and it moved, so with some more work i'm confident i'll get it close enough to be able to machine it straight, i attach couple of picture, you can see how the bar managed to move under max pressure, (25t).
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Mikebr5

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#15
I love homemade tools. Bravo.
Do as Michelangelo- Envision the straight shaft inside that bent one and keep removing steel until the straight part appears! :laughing:
 

schor

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#16
ok, I'll follow this one. Do you really think you can make a drill press cheaper that just buying a vintage one and replacing bushings/bearings? Or is this just more of a challenge and journey?
 

GoceKU

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#17
Steve S, i live in a small country our infrastructure is very different, here we do not have very old machines, probably late 60's the oldest and the old timers who own them price them like they are made of gold, i've been looking for an affordable one for more than 7 months and all i've found is absolutely destroyed, robbed from the vital parts pieces of scrap wich ware still couple of hundred euros, decided to give it a go, i do like a good challenge, and making complicated parts with only a lathe, welder and grinder, should be challenging.
 

rrjohnso2000

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#18
Just returned from a trip abroad. Inginuity is the mother of invention. Made several repairs without the "proper" tools/parts, you work with what is available.

GoceKU you seem to be well tooled up. I have no doubt success will be reached, this will be fun to watch. I realize it will be tough and frustrating for you but I'm sure a lot of us will enjoy your build

I would love to know what comes next before you attempt, maybe we could offer some alternative solutions. Best of luck
 

GoceKU

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#20
Today i managed to straighten the shaft to about 1 mm rondout, should be straight enafth to be able to turn it down on the lathe the the final bearing size, i did mount it and tried to cut the high spots on the weld, but because of the slip joint is flexing so i'll use my study rest and will take light cuts.
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tq60

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#21
It will move as the weld is cut so watch it.

Another way to straighten is how auto cams and cranks are done and not with a press.

You place between centers and find low spot.

Next get SMALL hammer and a chizel and get ready as this seems backwards....Ww did this in an engine shop and brain fights it....

Place low spot UP... Or high spot down whatever makes sense and take chizel and place on top of shaft in middle of weld and a few gentle taps and rotate shaft a bit to form an arc.

Your brain thinks taping towards bend will bend more but the chizel relieves stresses and that side gets wider thus shaft moves TOWARDS the chizel.

This was done on bent cams and welded cranks to straighten before grinding.

Bending by force will move a bunch when machined and bending by stress relief also moves but not as much.

It does take time and be gentle

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 

GoceKU

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#22
Lately i've had very little free time but i've managed to spend some time on the lathe and managed to turn down the weld, took it slow and steady, 80 RPM 0,5 mm cut, i'm getting lot of taper, probably because of the slip joint and have to adjust my study rest to make it straight but run out of time for today.
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GoceKU

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#23
Today i continued machining the shaft, i removed the taper by adjusting the study rest, then i had to move the study rest behind the tool post then i machined the other weld also cut down the taper to clean up the discoloration from welding, when the shaft cooled down the back bearing journals shrank and became slip fit and i wanted them press fit, so i did aggressive Knurling now is back to size, now i need to find couple of securing clips and cut groves for them, its cumming along slowly.
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GoceKU

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#24
I'm planning to run 6006 bearings, on this build, they are readily available and good size, i had couple of 6006 no name bearings but wanted to use good quality bearings, so i bought those KBS made in kentucky USA bearings, i prefer made in germany bearings, but i was assured those are top quality, now i can measure and plan where to cut the securing clip grooves, also today i bought this belt pulley with this heavy duty support bearing, i may use it if i can cut some of the belt groves smaller so i can have two belts and more gears.
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GoceKU

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#25
Today i managed to find couple of securing clips, unfortunately i only find the round wire type, but they should work, i decided to place the bearings at 270 mm apart, and 80 mm apart on the upper spindle, hand grounded an HSS tool to make the grooves radius to match the securing clips i'm having hard time finding pipe with an 55 mm or smaller inner bore, and machining one from a solid piece is too costly, i found one piece right size but its rusty and has many welds , i may try to machine it and see if it cleans up well enough to be used.
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GoceKU

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#26
Today i decided to try cleaning the pipe i had, i had no luck finding a new of the right size, started with a brazed cutter but was getting lot of tool pressure, so i switched to a carbide insert tool, cut down half way thru the welds, but had to go, i had couple of things to do, i may be back in the machine shop to finish this pipe.
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Mikebr5

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#27
This is going to be a beastly and beautiful tool Goce. Beastly as in tough.
Good work, and thank you for letting us follow along your build. :beer:
 

GoceKU

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#28
Quick little update, i spent some more time on this pipe and managed to clean it up, i know before i begin, i'll need to weld up couple spots, now i'm at 60,6 mm so after welding i'll have some material to make it smooth and straight at a round number of 60 mm, i'll do the welding tomorrow and i'll update then.
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GoceKU

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#29
This morning i managed to weld up the rusted areas, on the pipe, took couple of photos, this is the same way i fix worn down shafts, the pipe was really thin in one area, this piece of pipe came out of an rear axle from a first gen mazda rx7.
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GoceKU

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#30
The work continues, it took some time but i managed to turn down the weld, there are couple of holes, but is much better than before and the surface is good enough for slip fit, tomorrow i need to cut the bearing slots and their retaining groves and come up with some way to make or find a gear rack.
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