Shop made insert tool holders

Comments on the tapered endmills got me wondering about my cheap set of insert holders so I took a look at them yesterday. The sidewalls ARE tapered but on one of them the taper doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the pocket, so the insert doesn't sit flat on the bottom. A true case of getting what you pay for.

I tried using one of my small files to clean it up but quickly discovered that the holders are hardened. I have a diamond file but unfortunately it has a square profile so I can't get to the bottom of the taper. I'll have to see if I can find something on ebay or Amazon that will work, like a small triangular diamond file.

Anyway, it often is educational (and useful) to me to follow these discussions. Thanks!
 
I've renamed this thread to "Shop made insert tool holders" because I think it more accurately describes where I am at this point.
 
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I've wanted a better fly cutter for a while. I don't use mine often, mainly because it's pretty slow. I've thought about buying the Tormach SuperFly cutter a few times but IMHO the system and inserts are pretty overpriced. In another thread someone mentioned that they had a "Recycle cutter" that used the unused corners on CCGT inserts. I thought about making one for a couple days. I wished I hadn't gotten rid of the R8 shell mill holder that came with my old mill. Then it dawned on me. I can just make a version of the SuperFly tool to fit my Shars 2.5" R-8 fly cutter body.

Flycutter v1 - 2.png

Flycutter v1 - 3.png

Flycutter v1 - 1.png
 
In another thread someone mentioned that they had a "Recycle cutter" that used the unused corners on CCGT inserts.

Probably me. I love that tool. I also have a FM45 that uses the same SEH_ inserts as the Superfly as well as a few fly cutters but I use the Recycle Cutter the most.
 
I don't cut much steel. I'd say 99% of my projects are in aluminum. I got the 1045 steel from McMaster on Monday. It is harder than the HRS I used for my test cuts but it has a beautiful finish when it's cut. I'm still waiting on the 7 degree mill from eBay. It was supposed to be here on Monday but the seller shipped it First Class Mail so there's no telling when it will actually arrive. I also ordered a liquid bluing kit from Amazon. I'm planning to blue these up when I get them done.

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Finishing kit
 
great minds think alike, I've been planning on making a flycutter to use those unused CCxT insert corners for several years, since I saw Darkzero's recycle cutter actually.

I'd suggest black oxide instead, it'll provide a more durable oil retaining coating than cold blue. 10g/l of ammonium nitrate, boil for 40min and you're good :)
 
I don't cut much steel. I'd say 99% of my projects are in aluminum. I got the 1045 steel from McMaster on Monday. It is harder than the HRS I used for my test cuts but it has a beautiful finish when it's cut. I'm still waiting on the 7 degree mill from eBay. It was supposed to be here on Monday but the seller shipped it First Class Mail so there's no telling when it will actually arrive. I also ordered a liquid bluing kit from Amazon. I'm planning to blue these up when I get them done.

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Finishing kit
From my experience the perma blue isn’t as good as I would have thought. I had bought this g96 gun blue awhile back which is a gel type and the finish was excellent. One coat gives a nice deep black oxide finish followed up with a light oil. Almost the same finish as what you’d get from a professional coating.
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I recently bought the Casey perma blue just to see what else was out there. I have a gun I want to “blue” the hardware on and wasn’t impressed at all. I polished the pieces to be done, cleaned and coated. Found the coating wasn’t deep at all would wipe right off with paper towel and oil. Tried three coats and didn’t get any deeper or better results. Luckily was only 12 bucks but you live and learn. Highly recommend the g96 great product.
 
Thanks for the review Cadillac. I ordered a bottle to try out. I guess I'll return the Casey kit.
 
Here’s a picture to give visual of what I was saying about the products.
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The strap clamps were all done with the g96. No real prep other than degreasing and just one coat with g96 then a light oil. In the second pic the smaller piece was left over from something that was surface ground and had a mirror like finish. Thought it would have enhanced the finish. It got three coats of the Casey blue. Once each coat was applied they said to do a 0000 steel wool buff and keep applying to desired color. Well I steel wooled once and it took the finish off to the point it didn’t even look like I did anything. So I tried giving a coat let dry then rinsed and each time the finish would nearly all come off. The only thing I kind of liked was it was a more blue color than black but blotchy :confused:. My goal was to “blue” hardware which I am now looking into the old way with salts and heat. I’ll post pics when I get my desired look. Have a good one.
 
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