Show us your 4x6 Bandsaw Modifications!

To make a better adjustable feed on mine I took an old 1" dia bimba air cylinder with a 5" stroke that I had laying around. Filled it with 90 wt gear oil and then ran a tube from front port fitting to rear port fitting with a needle valve inline. Now I just open it all the way to raise the saw and close it up til I get feed I want when lowering.
 
Hey- you said "Band saw". Well I made a portable to take with me on the job.

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Fun thread, which I just ran across because I was at http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/i-hate-the-vice-clamp-on-my-4x6-bandsaw.19232/#post-477948

I'll post a couple of the mods I've done (to several saws) over the years ..

(1) Starting off, a variation on the vertical mode table from Post #4 above, where Nels quoted Mike Cox: http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/bandsaw-table-and-fence.html
A simpler version, based on a door hinge, was created by Rick Sparber (of this forum) and is described in http://rick.sparber.org/FTHV.pdf
My own variation uses a gate hinge from Home Depot (about $6) and a 6" by 6" piece of 10 gauge steel. The hinge has one nice, long leg, so you can screw it directly to the blade positioner. It also has plastic inserts around the pin, so it doesn't rattle, and stays put when you move it to either position.
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The aluminum spacers under the bolt heads keep the plate perpendicular to the saw blade.
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(2) For swarf control I like to use a stainless steel "mud pan." The 14" size is nice. You can get them at either Home Depot of Lowes. I add a sheet aluminum, mounted under the saw casting, as a deflector for swarf that falls through the gap under the blade. The mud pan hooks under the lower edge of the deflector. A piece of 1 ½" by 1 ½" aluminum angle attached to the saw legs supports the mud pan, which is easy to remove and dump.
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(3) Finally, once I get the fixed vise jaw set up perpendicular to the blade, I drill a small hole through the jaw and table. A pin, captured with a bit of sash chain, will reset the jaw at this angle very reproducibly. The photo also shows the 45º position. Once that is found, I use the existing hole in the jaw to drill a second hole in the table.
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PS - Mike Cox (see Post #6 above) came up with the fantastic idea of making a needle valve from a piece of rod and incorporating the needle valve seat in the piston of his hydraulic downfeed. I've come up with a way to modify a screen door closer with (among other things) Mike's needle valve design, to produce a hydraulic downfeed that costs well under $50. I just finished a lengthy article about this downfeed and sent it to HSM/MW. The editor, George Bulliss, appears to have liked it. So now it's just a matter of waiting until he has room in one of his magazines to put it in print!
 
Finally got her reassembled and tuned up. Still need some attention on the actuator. May have to break down and go hydraulic, but I'm going to give her one last shot first. Great little saw and the best $25 I've ever spent. LOL The paint and primer cost more than what I paid for this saw. Although, the wife nearly kicked me out, as this was my 5th bandsaw I'd brought home in 3 weeks. LOL

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Here my Hot Rod Saw stand. Dimple die reinforcement plate (made my own dimple dies) and a set of DOHC cams bracing the back vertical.
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Needed an out feed roller. So out to the scrap pile. S10 driveshaft, HHR brake drum and an adjustable roller made from scrap steel, al rod and a suspension bolt.
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I like your stand- very solid! And your stock support stand too- I was just thinking of building one
Mark
 
I have to make everything I touch as idiot proof as I can... Before making this I looked around and could not find a zero stop, so I came up with this...


Xynudu's video is much more popular than mine, and he made his stop after watching my video

 
I can not believe some of the great Ideas you people have come up with. I made this shelf for the bandsaw because I can remove it and use it on my bigger bandsaw also. Has worked great. I want to make the extended jaw next and the trash shoot to collect the trash cut offs.
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PS - Mike Cox (see Post #6 above) came up with the fantastic idea of making a needle valve from a piece of rod and incorporating the needle valve seat in the piston of his hydraulic downfeed. I've come up with a way to modify a screen door closer with (among other things) Mike's needle valve design, to produce a hydraulic downfeed that costs well under $50. I just finished a lengthy article about this downfeed and sent it to HSM/MW. The editor, George Bulliss, appears to have liked it. So now it's just a matter of waiting until he has room in one of his magazines to put it in print!
The first half of the article has now been published in the November/December issue of The Home Shop Machinist. The second half will be in the Jan/Feb issue.

I'd post the pictures and text here, but don't want to mess with copyright issues. Guess I should ask George what and how I can publish.

GREAT ideas from everybody else!
 
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