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VSAncona

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Armorer -- That's a really nice lathe and doesn't look like it has seen much use. What is the back story on it? How did you find it and what is its history?
 

armorer198401

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Armorer -- That's a really nice lathe and doesn't look like it has seen much use. What is the back story on it? How did you find it and what is its history?
Thanks! Here is the story behind it. It was ordered by a man in Lincoln, NE and shipped to Baker Hardware in December of 1948. He worked for the railroad and used the lathe to make model trains. When he died his son inherited the lathe and it sat pretty much dormant since then. When he got a divorce a year ago he had to sell everything in his shop to downsize. He put it on Craigslist for $400 and I bought it sight unseen. It came with the bench which had 4 drawers full of tooling, as well as 4 buckets full of tooling. I didn't really know how good of shape it was in until I got it home and started disassembling it for cleaning. There wasn't anything wrong with the old girl, just decades of gummy oil with dust and dirt. And, of course, the gear cover hinge pin is loose. I still need to fix that.

I am in the process of making a new bench for it out of a steel base and a thick concrete top.
 

'Topcraft

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Afternoon gentlemen. I just picked up a heavy 10 that I am trying to date. The Southbend serial number page is a little confusing so I am looking for some other opinions. I can't post pics for awhile, but here is the info. model # CL187RB, serial number #2375R , 4.5 foot bed. It has a taper attachment, extended range gearbox, flame hardened bed. The apron has the lever clutch instead of the " star wheel " type. I come up with a 1988 date, but I am probably wrong. (hope not) I intended to wait till spring to buy a Southbend, but this one was way too nice to pass on. believe it or not, I see no backlash at all on the compound, about .010 on the crossfeed, and no noticeable backlash on the carriage. I believe this was a toolroom lathe, but then again, I could be wrong. It runs extremely quiet even in backgear. I paid the same price I would of if I had bought an 80 year old SB. Plus it came with the heavy sheetmetal bench, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a steady rest, a removable plexiglass chuck guard, a 3 phase motor on the lathe, and a brand new single phase ready to go in if I wish. I have been doing the happy dance since I picked it up this morning.
 

'Topcraft

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whups, meant to start a new thread, sorry about that. Mods feel free to move this if you wish
 

dlane

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Thanks to all that resized and loaded full size pictures
 

uncle harry

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Afternoon gentlemen. I just picked up a heavy 10 that I am trying to date. The Southbend serial number page is a little confusing so I am looking for some other opinions. I can't post pics for awhile, but here is the info. model # CL187RB, serial number #2375R , 4.5 foot bed. It has a taper attachment, extended range gearbox, flame hardened bed. The apron has the lever clutch instead of the " star wheel " type. I come up with a 1988 date, but I am probably wrong. (hope not) I intended to wait till spring to buy a Southbend, but this one was way too nice to pass on. believe it or not, I see no backlash at all on the compound, about .010 on the crossfeed, and no noticeable backlash on the carriage. I believe this was a toolroom lathe, but then again, I could be wrong. It runs extremely quiet even in backgear. I paid the same price I would of if I had bought an 80 year old SB. Plus it came with the heavy sheetmetal bench, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a steady rest, a removable plexiglass chuck guard, a 3 phase motor on the lathe, and a brand new single phase ready to go in if I wish. I have been doing the happy dance since I picked it up this morning.
Nice score ! Maybe some of my luck rubbed off (hee hee). I'm almost envious but then again I have the Harrison M300 for competition.
 

Manderioli

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I bit the bullet over the weekend and picked up a SBL 9a lathe so I can finish reconditioning my Van Norman mill. Overall I'm very satisfied with the purchase. Although like any piece of used machinery there is room for improvement.

I am a little concerned about the serial number stamped into the bed. 21890NAR9 is the serial number. According to the formula of (21890^0.0059)*1812 the bed comes up as 1922. Any suggestions to the actual year?

This week, I should receive new tools for the lathe. Once I finish turning new bronze bearings, I'll work on a better work bench designed for the lathe. Here is a picture tonight after setting up the countershaft, adjusting belt tensions, and giving it a spin.

image.jpeg
 

comstock-friend

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I am a little concerned about the serial number stamped into the bed. 21890NAR9 is the serial number. According to the formula of (21890^0.0059)*1812 the bed comes up as 1922. Any suggestions to the actual year? View attachment 129176
Yes, between these two known s/n's:

5/2/1949 16513 NKR7
12/6/1950 22487 NAR9

John
 

comstock-friend

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Once I finish turning new bronze bearings, I'll work on a better work bench designed for the lathe. View attachment 129176
I think you'll find that the spindle runs directly in the cast iron head stock (no bronze bushings) unless someone fitted them in the past. Looks like the lathe hasn't been too abused, your iron bearings will likely be OK and best left alone if possible.

Would require line boring to do fit bushings; tough task, although it has been done.

John
 

Manderioli

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I think you'll find that the spindle runs directly in the cast iron head stock (no bronze bushings) unless someone fitted them in the past. Looks like the lathe hasn't been too abused, your iron bearings will likely be OK and best left alone if possible.

Would require line boring to do fit bushings; tough task, although it has been done.

John
The bronze bushings are for my countershaft on the van Norman mill. One of them is worn past 0.025" causing the second bearing behind it on the shaft to over heat.

I couldn't justify buying a project lathe when I needed a good lathe to complete the van Norman project.

A little history from previous owner-lathe was bought by an ametuer machinist (supposedly new) and willed the lathe to his best friend's son. The son barely used it and left it alone for the past 13 years. Then sold it to the owner I bought it from who used it for BB gun smithing. He sold the machine to me because he found another 9a that he liked more.
 

ZMB KLR

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IMG_20160601_231118_zpskhevlxuf.jpg

IMG_20160601_230742_zpsjpqwlvpv.jpg

1943 10L. Has the war production badge and very limited use of brass. The collet holder is the original wood. Came with a bunch of tool holders, and a couple phase II QCTP's that I'm going to end up selling to get an Aloris AXA. 3 phase motor will get a VFD upgrade. I'm going to run it as it but clean out and install new software. It will eventually get new paint. Probably the original OD green.
 

ZMB KLR

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IMG_20160601_231118_zpskhevlxuf.jpg

IMG_20160601_230742_zpsjpqwlvpv.jpg

1943 10L. Has the war production badge and very limited use of brass. The collet holder is the original wood. Came with a bunch of tool holders, and a couple phase II QCTP's that I'm going to end up selling to get an Aloris AXA. Albrecht drill chuck mixed in with a couple Jacobs, box of carbide indexable inserts. A couple 3 jaw chucks in the included small cabinet. 3 phase motor will get a VFD upgrade. I'm going to run it as it but clean out and install new software. It will eventually get new paint. Probably the original OD green.
 

Charles Spencer

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Well I got this one:

lathe3.jpg

And this one:

SB 9A.jpg

Then I got a good deal on another 9C so I bought it to keep in a box for spare parts. It was dirty but basically in very good shape. Then I found a 9A cheap that wasn't in very good shape at all. So I kept that one for spares and decided to clean up the other 9C I had and sell it.

I disassembled and checked everything but the headstock, which seemed fine. Not much wear to the bed when I checked it with a machinist level and precision square. I think it cleaned up nicely:

sb9c 6s.jpg sb9c 3s.jpg

sb9c 8s.jpg

Now I wanna keep it. Oh well.
 

Technical Ted

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Here's a picture of my 15" with 6 ft bed early 1930's South Bend. Model #188-C. I made the carriage stop and threading dial when I was first learning machining work 35+ years ago.


SB Lathe 188-C.jpg
 

682bear

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My South Bend 14 1/2...


20161121_115018.jpg 20161121_115006.jpg

As I bought it... pretty nasty...

20161111_150748.jpg

It had not been powered up in 20 something years... but it seems to be very tight and cuts well. I have not had a chance to thoroughly test it, yet.

-Bear
 

Steven K

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Has anyone ever spray welded a lathe way to build it up and than ground the lathe way straight.I have an old South Bend lathe that someone did a lot of tool post grinding on.There is wear under the chuck about twelve inches long.The rest of the way is still straight and not worn.My thought is to repair this area and build a grinder that would ride on the non-worn part of the way to grind the area to be repaired.I have seen shaft bearing surfaces spray welded and than reground to repair the shaft.Thought this might be a way to fix this problem.
 

Lordbeezer

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Here's my 10k cl 770 rg gap bed just finished restoring.made appx 1965..put a dc motor on it.has 16 speed v belt headstock..don't have a tail stock yet..came out of a school in the mountains of eastern Tennessee. image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

Lordbeezer

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Don't have any idea why so many pictures posted.could someone please tell me. Thanks
 

thenrie

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Don't have any idea why so many pictures posted.could someone please tell me. Thanks
I don't think anybody minds too much. Sometimes it takes a minute for a file to load. If you keep trying to re-load it, it will sometimes end up posting multiple times.
 

woodtickgreg

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Happens a lot with cellphones sometimes.
 

uncle harry

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Here is my 1972 high school 10K after referb.
I used one exactly like yours that I bought for a research division of a sign company back in '96. A sweet machine totally tight and wonderful to use. This brings nice memories. Thanks
 

Joseph Durnya

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Wish i had some pics of my WW2 heavy 10 from back in the day.. but here is whats on deck 13 x 6 and a 16 x 8 the 13 will be a keeper and unfortunately the 16 will be a flipper... not enough room for 1 nevermind 2 !!
 

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craptain

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Has anyone ever spray welded a lathe way to build it up and than ground the lathe way straight.I have an old South Bend lathe that someone did a lot of tool post grinding on.There is wear under the chuck about twelve inches long.The rest of the way is still straight and not worn.My thought is to repair this area and build a grinder that would ride on the non-worn part of the way to grind the area to be repaired.I have seen shaft bearing surfaces spray welded and than reground to repair the shaft.Thought this might be a way to fix this problem.
I don't know about welding, but Turcite is the usual material to repair the ways. Definitely not an easy or inexpensive option though.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

craptain

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I am the new owner of a 9" South Bend, apparently from 1938. I truly know very little about it so far and would appreciate any help. The deciding factor in the purchase was the tooling etc that came with it. Including Toolpost grinder, milling attachment and a fairly good selection of collets. It is still sitting in my trailer, and might have to stay there a little longer until I make room in my shop. I have a 10" Atlas that will stay until I have completed an ongoing project. It is sitting where I need to put the South Bend. d83979e9f0b33b71275864be5276d189.jpg 427d0fb87f3ca4a4a50fec08101e6f06.jpg 1951472efe3d1d78409ece325b07f8f6.jpg 0484ca9c35aa4dcd51c364239c066a1f.jpg 94316628a05feaa1c82e505ae433d02a.jpg ca718ed533f81bf7883850f17d9509eb.jpg 8fcf375e8a728c8160d95cb5b6924c6b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
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