Silver & Deming bit in a collet?

BarnyardEngineering

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I am the new owner of an old Jet JMD-15 mill/drill. And it's too small already. I bought this mill because I'm sick of drilling crooked holes with my drill press. The drill press is not rigid at all; any pressure on the quill, and the table flexes like a wet noodle. It's got more HP than my drill press, better speeds, the versatility of an R8 spindle, and 99.99% of my work is drilling holes in flat plates... Except for this time.

My first project ended up being drilling a series of holes in the flange of a 6x6 I-beam. Using the tools I have on hand, a Silver & Deming bit in the Jacobs chuck, the job won't fit.

I do not have any end mills yet.

How hinky is it to grab a Silver & Deming bit with a collet? I'm trying to work with the tools I have here.
 
Right or Wrong I've done it. Especially when there is inadequate clearance between the spindle and the table, or when I'm attempting to remove any error.
Regardless of the mill or DP run-out seems to multiple as you move away from the spindle (added distance of the chuck), and/or if the chuck doesn't close perfectly.

Unlike the drill chuck consider grabbing below the flats on the cylinder.
Be sure to consider speeds and feeds.

Daryl
MN
 
Totally correct way to do it in my book. Large drill bits and hole saws are hard on a chuck and are better in a collet.
 
From what I have seen using a S&D drillbit in a collet is a very good method.

Not only does it shrink the amount of stickout it also removes a lot of error-prone parts (read: drill chuck).
 
Milling machines make a better drill press than an actual drill press does -- if the work and drill can fit. A floor model drill press usually has much better headroom than most milling machines if using the table, but often a mill has better center reach if it has a sliding ram (most floor drill presses and mills with turrets can drill work resting on the ground if necessary.) Mills are also usually more rigid, and better squared to the world. I have not tried to turn a S & D drill with a collet, but I do have a R8-MT2 adapter, which works well with MT2 drills, but steals much headroom, which is the issue in this thread...
 
You aren't kidding about that... The last straw on my drill press was when I tried to drill a cross hole in a hitch shank so it wouldn't stick out of the receiver on my truck so bleepin' far. It was so crooked the pin wouldn't fit, and ruined the shank.

This was after I made sure the drill press table was square in both directions.

Just for giggles, I took the same hitch shank out of the scrap bin, put it in the mill vise, and hogged a 5/8" hole. Came out perfect. I'm sold. Drill press is going on Craigslist as soon as I can shanghai someone to help me drag it up out of the basement.
 
You might consider using rotary broaches instead of big, honking drills. As long as the work is not thicker than 1/2", they will drill quicker, cleaner, faster and will last far longer than a big twist drill.
 
You will find that it is difficult to hold a 1" drill with a 1/2" shank in an R8 collett at a MRR that it is capable of.

Otherwise have at it.

I also suspect that there are few hobby level mills that will push a rotary broach hard enough to make them more effective then a drill when producing a rough hole, rotary broaching is excellent for producing non round holes.
 
Keep the drill press, they work great for quick light work, and countersinking. Pretty much always have a countersink in the chuck for quick deburring.
 
You will find that it is difficult to hold a 1" drill with a 1/2" shank in an R8 collett at a MRR that it is capable of.

Otherwise have at it.

I also suspect that there are few hobby level mills that will push a rotary broach hard enough to make them more effective then a drill when producing a rough hole, rotary broaching is excellent for producing non round holes.

I meant to say Rotabroach, not rotary broach. I happened to watch a Youtube video about a rotary broach tool and it must have gotten stuck in my head.
 
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