Silver soldering/ brazing bandsaw bands

Technical Ted

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You most likely know this, but there are different types of silver solder. I don't think the soft silver solder i.e. Harris StayBrite (silver bearing solder) will work for this. I would use hard silver solder. I don't braze my blades because I have a blade welder, but this is the hard silver solder I use:


I use it with both the white and higher heat black flux. They both work fine depending on the application.

Very strong!

Ted
 

mattthemuppet2

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I thought the idea was to put the ends together and grind so the angles match. That way the actual angle doesn’t matter.
I think that'd work well with a belt sander, but would be hard to do with a bench grinder
Matching is more important that the actual angle, to a point. There is a range of acceptable angles. Off hand I do not know what that range is.
Using a jig just means you will have consistent angles and there for consistent results.
I went from 1/16 to 1/4" and the 1/4" scarf seems to be holding. Not sure I could make it any longer to be honest, not a lot of metal to work with on a 0.025" band.

I think I just need to build a belt sander so I can build a jig to grind my bands :)
You most likely know this, but there are different types of silver solder. I don't think the soft silver solder i.e. Harris StayBrite (silver bearing solder) will work for this. I would use hard silver solder. I don't braze my blades because I have a blade welder, but this is the hard silver solder I use:


I use it with both the white and higher heat black flux. They both work fine depending on the application.

Very strong!

Ted
I'm using 50% silver solder
 

woodchucker

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I think I just need to build a belt sander so I can build a jig to grind my bands :)

I'm using 50% silver solder
Me too.
I have a 1x42, and it is the most useful tool. I am thinking about building a 2" large fully capable sander. They really rip metal quickly..
 

ericc

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Annealing shouldn't be necessary if you don't exceed the austenitizing temperature during soldering. Even if you do, the torch's flame is so diffuse I don't see how it would create any hard spots. Only soft spots.
 

mattthemuppet2

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Great price for the new blade stock.
Thanks for sharing your experience!



70 foot long blades?! That is a biiiiig saw!
;)

I smell a typo...........................

-brino
ahem, yeah, mebbe I used the wrong units there :)
Me too.
I have a 1x42, and it is the most useful tool. I am thinking about building a 2" large fully capable sander. They really rip metal quickly..
It's been on my list for a good long while. The plan is to make a compact 2 wheel 2x42 or 2x48" grinder using a treadmill motor, it just hasn't made it to the top of the list yet!
Annealing shouldn't be necessary if you don't exceed the austenitizing temperature during soldering. Even if you do, the torch's flame is so diffuse I don't see how it would create any hard spots. Only soft spots.
annealing may well not be needed, but everything worked with it included so I'm going to keep doing it :D
 

MrWhoopee

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Annealing shouldn't be necessary if you don't exceed the austenitizing temperature during soldering. Even if you do, the torch's flame is so diffuse I don't see how it would create any hard spots. Only soft spots.
Yes, annealing is necessary when resistance welding blades to keep the weld from being brittle. Not necessary (or even desirable) when soldering. Annealing temps are above the melting point of silver solders.
 

mattthemuppet2

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yup, that was one of the ones I watched before my experiments started :)
 

mattthemuppet2

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here's what 23 1/2 feet of 10/14tpi bandsaw band looks like :) Not bad for $11!
IMG_20211102_183602.jpg

IMG_20211102_183645.jpg


that should hopefully last me a while!
 
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