Slitting Saw

HBilly1022

Registered
Registered
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
561
I've been looking at some slitting saws for the Milling machine and the closest supplier lists them for cutting thin wall tubing, so I thought that was all they were good for but I found a couple of videos showing people using them to make deep cuts in mild steel. The cuts were in material that appeared to be about 1" thick and the cuts looked to be about 1" deep. Are the there different slitting saws made specifically for cutting thicker material or will the cheap chinese saws work? If so, does it matter if a 36 tooth or 72 tooth saw are used? The ones I am looking at are 2 1/2" to 3" diameter.

I would love to use one of these for some of the cuts I've made so far, instead of dulling my end mills removing large amounts of material.
 
I'm not sure about the cheap saws, the ones I have used were Cleveland and we always had good luck with them. We cut tool steels, D2, A2 and the like. Slow rpm's (it's based on surface speed and chip load) and feed speed. There are all sorts of thicknesses and diameters, Woodruff cutters can be called slitting saws. Machinery's Handbook, or internet sites, can give you an idea how to go about choosing and using slitting saws.
 
Typically the thinner the material, more teeth are required. And as far as diameter, keep it as small as possible but enough reach the depth you require.
 
Last edited:
Could you be more specific on your intended use? There my be better options than a slitting saw.
 
For Aluminium and other soft materials go for a lower tooth-count, as the increased "gullet" clearance allows more chip build-up bef0re the saw jams - a common cause of breakage! Be sure to keep the saw well lubricated, WD-40 (man-size or not) for aluminium, cutting oil / suds coolant for steel.

The best slitting saws are relieved - the flat faces are slightly dished to give some clearance behind the teeth as they cut and reduce friction, a Good Idea.

If you're f'rinstance slitting through a ring for a clamp, put a sacrificial slug in the bore, otherwise the residual stress can close the cut on the saw as it breaks though (and the saw breaks...)

Just my ha'pennorth,

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Thanks Guys. The reason I brought it up was that I recently made a couple of v blocks in mild steel that was 1" thick and the depth of cut was a little over 1". I used mill ends to make the cuts but that was a lot of material to hog off. I watched a video where someone did the same thing using what appeared to be a slitting saw. The cut was quick and seemed to be a better way to achieve the same result.

Looks like I may have to get a Machinery Handbook and do some more reading too.
 
Thanks Guys. The reason I brought it up was that I recently made a couple of v blocks in mild steel that was 1" thick and the depth of cut was a little over 1". I used mill ends to make the cuts but that was a lot of material to hog off. I watched a video where someone did the same thing using what appeared to be a slitting saw. The cut was quick and seemed to be a better way to achieve the same result.

Looks like I may have to get a Machinery Handbook and do some more reading too.
I bought mine on ebay for $12. Can $12. Shipping. Older 22 edition never used. You can find it in pdf free download to.
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Jack. Did you get that on Ebay.ca? I never bought anything through Ebay and usually get stuff through / from Amazon.ca but they do not have the selection that Amazon.com has.
 
Yes on ebay. I think i made an offer on it. Was accepted. Came from usa. New $150 to almost $200. I never tried buying off Amazon. I think the pdf are just as old maybe more. Book is better. 2512 pg. I would buy new if I was an apprentice to cover the cnc, new stuff.
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Make sure that you are buying the machinerys handbook and not the guide. I think I may try buying a couple items off Amazon.
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top