Small Arbor Spacers

[Chewy]

I am making some spacers for a HF wire wheel to fit Baldor grinder. Using 7/8" 1018 cause that is what I had. I made the first ones 1/2" long. Forgot to add in USS washer for spacer and went to reduce length. Don't have 5C for lathe and too big for ER32. Have 8" 4J and 6" 3J. The best I can do is 4-5 thousands on ends being out of parallel. Don't get me wrong, they work. Probably straighter then HF wheel.

Tried dialing in, Parallels behind the piece. Put on 1/2" drill and used tailstock for center. The only thing I can think of is to make a cross with raised center and leave in chuck behind piece. I can fix with mill, but that is defeating the purpose. If I wanted to make a critical part or gear or something, the ends are too far out of square.
Also, I get a much better face with cutting tool than parting tool. If this was 2" long, I would be OK. !/2" down to 3/8" is a mystery to me.

Any tricks that won't take all day making special holders?

Thanks in advance!!!! Charles

 

[RJSakowski]

I have made parts that were too short to accurately fix in the chuck by making a stub mandrel with a neck down length equal to the length of the spacer and a diameter for a light press fit of the spacer. The spacer is pressed on and faced then turned over and the second side faced. I turned the mandrel and didn't remove it from the chuck until I had faced the parts, ensuring concentricity. The press fit was only at the last bit near the shoulder and the remainder was a heavy slip fit. This was to facilitate removal of the part. A wedge is inserted between the part and the stub mandrel to pry the part off. Here is an illustration of the concept.

 

[Chewy]

I like!! That would be quick to make and I could do that with the stub left ove from the bushings. It would already be in the chuck and dialed in. The only mandrel setup that I could think about was an expanding mandrel and that woul be too much trouble to make. I knew that somebody had to have solved this problem before. THANKS!! Charles