Solder seal wire connectors

[alloy]

Well luckily ALL the wiring in the car is brand new. New Autowire classic update harness, and a PSI Conversions LS3 swap harness.

I'm doing everything I can to prevent problems in the future. The best wire connections I can, premium parts as much as I can afford, lots of nyloc nuts everywhere.

I plan on using this as my daily. The only time I won't drive it is in the snow. I have an all wheel drive SUV for that. I've spent too many years with driving newer cars, it's about time I drive what I enjoy. And hopefuy if I live long enough I'll be enjoying my my 55 Chevy after I build it.

 

[rwm]

I was actually wondering if fluxing the wires first could get these to work better. I have not tried it.
Robert

 

[matthewsx]

I recently let my ABYC Electrical certification lapse but on boats using only solder for a connection isn't allowed per standard.

https://abycinc.org/blogpost/1678504/293794/Does-Your-Boat-s-Wiring-Meet-ABCY-E-11-Standards--Ed-Sherman

John

 

[Jackle1312]

Your better off using a good quality crimp splice and adhesive lined heat shrink. I use the TE Connectivity solistrand connectors and haven't had any issues. They do require a special ratchet crimper that doesn't open until fully crimped. What ever you do don't use the cheap crimp connectorsif you want it to last. Also solder can make the connection brittle and more prone to failure.

 

[pontiac428]

I won't touch these connectors with a ten foot crimper. I have no expectation that low-temp bismuth solder is going to stick to copper wire reliably. Heat from the engine bay is one thing, heat from resistance due to a full load over a weak connection is enough to cause a failure. John M.'s comment about solder joints being prohibited on marine systems is right in line with this. Automotive wiring harnesses (and combat vehicles for that matter) are all crimped to prevent fatigue and allow for more transient heat tolerance. Low-temp solder joints seem like a weak link on multiple fronts to me. For convenient splices, the chinese knockoff Daniels crimpers plus uninsulated butt connectors and with adhesive-lined shrink boot make a durable solution. With silicone insulated fine strand wire, those splices can hold up to 600 degrees of heat, compared to 231 F or less.

 

[WobblyHand]

I won't touch these connectors with a ten foot crimper. I have no expectation that low-temp bismuth solder is going to stick to copper wire reliably. Heat from the engine bay is one thing, heat from resistance due to a full load over a weak connection is enough to cause a failure. John M.'s comment about solder joints being prohibited on marine systems is right in line with this. Automotive wiring harnesses (and combat vehicles for that matter) are all crimped to prevent fatigue and allow for more transient heat tolerance. Low-temp solder joints seem like a weak link on multiple fronts to me. For convenient splices, the chinese knockoff Daniels crimpers plus uninsulated butt connectors and with adhesive-lined shrink boot make a durable solution. With silicone insulated fine strand wire, those splices can hold up to 600 degrees of heat, compared to 231 F or less.

What @pontiac428 said. I've had solder joints fail at or near a bend. Good crimp joints are far better. Normal (not low temp) solder joints can be made under special conditions, but the cables need to be constrained (on both sides) to prevent any bending or movement within an inch or two of the solder joint. The solder wicks up the cable strands quite a distance.

 

[Janderso]

I tried a different companies terminal version recently, fail

That's too bad, a slick idea.
Maybe some improvement to the product down the road.
I've used them on machine wiring, so far so good.

 

[markba633csi]

Automotive is an especially harsh environment for electrical connections- you've got the axis of evil: heat, vibration and moisture
Marine is even worse- adds salt

 

[G-ManBart]

I won't touch these connectors with a ten foot crimper. I have no expectation that low-temp bismuth solder is going to stick to copper wire reliably. Heat from the engine bay is one thing, heat from resistance due to a full load over a weak connection is enough to cause a failure. John M.'s comment about solder joints being prohibited on marine systems is right in line with this. Automotive wiring harnesses (and combat vehicles for that matter) are all crimped to prevent fatigue and allow for more transient heat tolerance. Low-temp solder joints seem like a weak link on multiple fronts to me. For convenient splices, the chinese knockoff Daniels crimpers plus uninsulated butt connectors and with adhesive-lined shrink boot make a durable solution. With silicone insulated fine strand wire, those splices can hold up to 600 degrees of heat, compared to 231 F or less.

This!

In the welding world you'll see a lot of newbies asking if they should solder the connections on the leads because it seems like it should be "better"....it's not. The old guys usually respond with something like "you can try that, and when they fail you'll wind up crimping them".

 

[Eddyde]

I bought a set of these, I have used them a few times: I found that cleaning the wire with non corrosive flux eliminates wetting issues, also heat it well. Use only a heat gun, no flame. So far no issues but time will tell....