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Solid Tool Post Mount

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MSD0

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#1
Decided to replace the compound slide on my PM1127 with a solid tool post mount for an Aloris AXA QCTP. Has virtually eliminated chatter (especially when parting off) and has allowed me to set tool offsets for each tool. I’m planning on using miteebite fixture clamps or something similar to prevent the tool post from rotating View attachment 260150 View attachment 260153
 

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Nogoingback

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#2
Nice job on the mount. I made something similar for my lathe recently and the improvement in rigidity was well worth the effort.
 
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MSD0

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MSD0

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Nice job on the mount. I made something similar for my lathe recently and the improvement in rigidity was worth the effort.
Thanks, yeah it’s a big improvement on smaller machines like the 1127.
Edit- I still need to try knurling to see how that goes. With the compound, there was a lot of deflection.
 
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Uglydog

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#5
One of the guru machinist (no sarcasm intended) videos recently showed similar.
So that I understand, please confirm that the miteebite fixture clamps will thread into the two threaded holes on the top of the riser.
I'm excited that you are getting better cuts.

Daryl
MN
 

ttabbal

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#6
Was the thickness chosen for a specific reason? I'm sure thicker is better to a point, I'm just not sure what that point would be.
 

MSD0

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#7
One of the guru machinist (no sarcasm intended) videos recently showed similar.
So that I understand, please confirm that the miteebite fixture clamps will thread into the two threaded holes on the top of the riser.
I'm excited that you are getting better cuts.

Daryl
MN
I still need to order the fixture clamps, but I used the offset specified by the manufacturer. If for some reason that doesn’t work, I can always machine a flat on the opposite side of the clamp.
 

MSD0

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#8
Was the thickness chosen for a specific reason? I'm sure thicker is better to a point, I'm just not sure what that point would be.
The thickness is basically equal to the distance from the cross slide to the top of the compound.
 

T Bredehoft

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#9
I'm pleased to see the T slots in the cross slide, the manufacture recognizes that we like to make our own tooling blocks.
 

middle.road

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#10
Thanks, yeah it’s a big improvement on smaller machines like the 1127.
Edit- I still need to try knurling to see how that goes. With the compound, there was a lot of deflection.
Use a clamp type knurler. Much better and easier than a 'bumper'.

- EDIT -
RobRenz' video -=- LINK -=-

Need to think about doing this on mine. Since I need to redo the T-Nuts, maybe do up (4) pcs to hold down the block.
1519952907048.png
 
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MSD0

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#11
Use a clamp type knurler. Much better and easier than a 'bumper'.

- EDIT -
RobRenz' video -=- LINK-=-

Need to think about doing this on mine. Since I need to redo the T-Nuts, maybe do up (4) pcs to hold down the block.
View attachment 260255
Thanks for the link. I finally figured out how to set tool offsets in my DRO (SINO) and have been numbering all my tool holders. Repeatability has been good so far and it really speeds up jobs that require multiple tools.
 

jbolt

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#12
I use the mitee bite clamps on mine. They work great for fine tuning. My CXA has a hole in the bottom for a dowel pin which I also use.
 

MSD0

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#13
I use the mitee bite clamps on mine. They work great for fine tuning. My CXA has a hole in the bottom for a dowel pin which I also use.
Good to hear. I wanted something that was adjustable and also removable in case I needed to rotate the tool post.
 

davidpbest

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#14
Use a clamp type knurler. Much better and easier than a 'bumper'.

- EDIT -
RobRenz' video -=- LINK-=-

Need to think about doing this on mine. Since I need to redo the T-Nuts, maybe do up (4) pcs to hold down the block.
View attachment 260255
You'll partially defeat the purpose of improving rigidity if you use t-nuts. I tried that approach first, and measurements were not gratifying. Here is what I ended up doing:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157684102384825
 

ddickey

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#15
I use the mitee bite clamps on mine. They work great for fine tuning. My CXA has a hole in the bottom for a dowel pin which I also use.
One or two dowel pins?
 

wrmiller

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#16
My 1340GT is the first lathe I have owned that I don't feel the need for a solid tool post. But then I don't push my machines like some folks do. And I use a clamp-type knurler. :)

That and I'm always using the compound so removing it would be really silly in my case.
 

jbolt

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#18
My 1340GT is the first lathe I have owned that I don't feel the need for a solid tool post. But then I don't push my machines like some folks do. And I use a clamp-type knurler. :)

That and I'm always using the compound so removing it would be really silly in my case.
I agree it's not for everyone but it does make a difference. I recently put my compound back on to do some short tapers. Out of laziness I left it on and began working on some shafts. The difference in rigidity was so apparent I stopped and put the solid riser back on. I think of it as another arrow in the quiver. Not much different than swapping out a chuck.
 

wrmiller

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#19
The design of your compound differs slightly from that on mine, but I don't know if that actually makes a difference.

It could also be that I'm not working on shafts. :)
 

MSD0

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#20
My 1340GT is the first lathe I have owned that I don't feel the need for a solid tool post. But then I don't push my machines like some folks do. And I use a clamp-type knurler. :)

That and I'm always using the compound so removing it would be really silly in my case.
Will definitely check out the clamp style knurler. For comparison, here’s the original compound on the 1127.
 

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middle.road

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#21
I use the mitee bite clamps on mine. They work great for fine tuning. My CXA has a hole in the bottom for a dowel pin which I also use.
Which Mitee Bites did you use?
 

MSD0

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#23
PN 10201, 5/16-18
I’m planning on using these (PN 10504, 1/4-20). I indicated the side of the tool post and will recheck after a week and see if anything has moved.
 

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#24

MSD0

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#25
Not much choice on the 1127 as it has t-slots on top of cross slide. I guess one could drill and tap holes further inboard, but would be less effective and could only drill in about 1/2"
The t-slots have worked out fine on the 1127.
 

wrmiller

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#26
The t-slots have worked out fine on the 1127.
And they should. :) You 'could' make some longer/thicker t-nuts to give a bit more distribution to cutting forces. If you need more than that, maybe you need a larger lathe. :)
 

jbolt

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#27
The t-slots on the 1127 should be more than substantial for the size of the lathe.

On my PM-1440GT the compound is held on with two small and fairly thin t-nuts. This is the weak link for rigidity. To make things worse, in the 30 degree position one of the t-nuts is within the access hole for the t-nuts.

ToolPost_013.png
 

wrmiller

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#28
The t-slots on the 1127 should be more than substantial for the size of the lathe.

On my PM-1440GT the compound is held on with two small and fairly thin t-nuts. This is the weak link for rigidity. To make things worse, in the 30 degree position one of the t-nuts is within the access hole for the t-nuts.

View attachment 268978
Ouch. Can you make thicker, longer and radiused t-nuts that take up more of that round slot? Just thinking out loud.
 

MSD0

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#29
And they should. :) You 'could' make some longer/thicker t-nuts to give a bit more distribution to cutting forces. If you need more than that, maybe you need a larger lathe. :)
That’s actually what I ended up doing. ADB88258-9680-4F91-AA7C-B5068D295247.jpeg
 
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