Some work on a TX650.

matthewsx

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I have a 650 motor that needs a bike to go into. Gonna try to figure that out next month, suggestions appreciated.

John
 

th62

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This is a new brake divider I machined up to replace the original. The original hoses were rotted, so I replaced them and did away with the two steel tubes that connect the hose to the calliper and the hose from the master cylinder to the divider. Unfortunately, the new hoses have the banjos on the same plain requiring the lower hose to be twisted through 90degrees to connect to the original divider, so I machined a new divider to get around the problem. The lower hose connects at the rear of the divider, as does the brake light switch. The top hose connects to the side of the divider.
 

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th62

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A few hours is all it took - it's just a pile of bits that once was an almost complete bike now, just needed tyres and the seat covered. Going to be a big job polishing all those bits again, any volunteers???

A couple of mods on the frame to do: Remove the coil and flasher mounts then repaint along with tank, guards, seat, trees and a few other bits. Not sure what paint to use this time. I used acrylic lacquer last time, but spilt some petrol on the tank and it stained it. Painted heaps of tanks with acrylic lacquer before but never had this problem, either the paint is different or the petrol is. Don't really want to repeat the exercise.
 

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Aukai

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Coming around the turn to the finish line :encourage:
 

jonesn7

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So far, Spraymax 2k clearcoat (I prefer their Glamor gloss, but they also have satin) has worked for me over lacquer and water borne color for the tank & tins. I just use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy (which isn't an epoxy) on the frame. After several weeks curing the Rustoleum handles gas well. Might try to find the Rustoleum in a pint next time. Their main draw-back is their spray nozzles. Crap pattern and hard to press. The Spraymax 2k nozzles are very good. I've not tried Spraymax in colors, but it is a true 2k paint, so you must protect yourself and only have ~12-24 hours to use it once the inner part is activated. Cuts and buffs great. So far (~5 years on my oldest ones) the clear has held up great, and protected the cheap color underneath very well.
 

wachuko

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Is everything okay? Or still polishing parts?
 

th62

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Applied the final coats of acrylic lacquer to the tinwork and some ancillaries this afternoon, didn't come out as clear or as good as I hoped, but acceptable I guess. I'll give it a few more days then sand the tank and spray over with 2k clear. Not the done thing, technically, but plenty do it, so we'll see how it goes.
 

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th62

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Painted the tank, seat, guards, headlight and callipers with 2k clearcoat this morning. Unfortunately, I can't wear glasses under the respiration so I couldn't see too clearly - bloody great run on the tank, damn. Couldn't get any non isocyanate free, so just the usual 2K.

It's been over 40 years since I used 2k, so I couldn't remember what coverage was like, how much paint I'd need, googled it in various painting forums. 2litres minimum for frame, tank, guards seat, headlight I was advised. Armed with that knowledge, I shyed away from 2k because it would have cost near as damn it to $450/$500.

Seems our painting professionals haven' a clue., I mixed up 250mm clear, 125mm catalyst and a little thinners. Got three coats down on tank, guards, seat, headlight and callipers and still had 200mm of mixed paint left.

By the look of it, I won't be spending anytime compounding or polishing the paintwork.

This pic should give you some idea why painting and, polishing aren't my favourite past times. Scared the crap out of the dog.
 

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