South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

Ok. Found a chunk of steel and when I get a chance I'll make a mounting plate. I have already ordered a 14mmx1.5 tap. Just went out to the mail box and my new/used spindle came in. It's a lot better than the one that came with the lathe. Probably start on the nasty, greasy mess of a cross-slide, compound and tapert attachment tomorrow.
 

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My QCTP arrived yesterday. My plan, to make it fit the compond, is to use a flange nut. I'll use a 14mmx1.5 tap to make it fit the mounting bolt that came with it. Otberwise I can mill one out or some 1/2" steel plate if nut is not stable enough.

NO!! on the flange nut. It appears that you have a mill, so mill a chunk of steel.
 
I'm probably making a mistake by not painting it with a gun and using some hardener in it but Rust-O-Lium rattle cans are soo easy to use.
Agreed on the rattle cans, but when you do choose to paint with a gun - what type of paint? What added "hardener"?
(Just trying to discover your favourite 2-pack).
 
Agreed on the rattle cans, but when you do choose to paint with a gun - what type of paint? What added "hardener"?
(Just trying to discover your favourite 2-pack).
Best to go to a good paint store and ask for information. Lot of variables, pressure, paint type and various hardeners. It's a pain so I choose to use rattle cans and if it get's scratched up it's easy to fix. And your surely not asking an expert when you ask me!!
 
Were it me, I’d be looking for a good enamel and brush it on. No fussing with masking or dealing with overspray.


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Best to go to a good paint store and ask for information. Lot of variables, pressure, paint type and various hardeners.
I have already been some way down this road, getting to know the difference between 1X and 2X, and which Alkyd 1X will let brush marks "level", and how long which paint will allow runs to be taken up before hardening. How oil based enamels will eventually dry and go hard, but it might take days, or months, or not happen at all.

If you watch enough videos, you can get to know what suits.
No 2-packs for me yet. The end effect is hard and durable, but I don't like the toxic nature of the stuff.
Masking? I need to do that anyway, even with a brush.

The other kind of masking - always. I use the kind that when when combined with eyeglasses and ear defenders makes you look like a horror extra from the set of "The Fly". Basically, if I get a whiff of the solvents, my chest wheezes up. This has happened, even when I just took the lid off the can of 1K alkyd too close to my face.
The carbon granules really do work!

So I use a rattle can - but I do always use a primer stage, and I use a heat gun in a practiced way.

Not tried it out yet - but I do have one of these --> Electric Airless 550W

Old school air guns lay on about 35% and overspray almost the whole room.
HVLP spray guns have bigger holes blasting towards the paint exit to make a "fan" spray, and they get 60-65% down, so much less overspray. You need a big compressor to deliver the high volume. It sounds counter-intuitive, but the bigger holes mean lower pressure (at the holes).

The "airless" electric types seem to deliver very nearly all the paint where you point it.
The compressor" is apparently built-in. Why else would it need 550W? For the £22.90 price, compared to having a separate compressor, I can see why they might appeal.

These "airless" guns are cheap, and I don't yet know much about them. The not-so-good kind are maybe only good for spraying a garden fence, but now, the better ones give a good finish on small paint jobs, and are much used inside, painting walls, doors, furniture, etc. I came across one video of a guy showing how accurately he could paint a picture frame, apparently having no problems with over-spray.
(Have to look that one up again).

For stuff small enough to put in an oven (I know - I know - don't go there!), and an enormous amount of careful preparation, and a modicum of knowledge about high voltage current-limited DC, you can get into powder-coat finish. Like my car wheels repair - but that was done by a professional. You can even do it without the high voltage.

You can get a DIY powder coat kit from Harbor Freight.
Search "DIY powder coat" on our favourite video channel.
YT is surprising sometimes!
 
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My counter-balance, spindle and QCTP all arrived yesterday. They all look really good. Being my spindle arrived I'll probably work on the headstock instead of working on the cross slide and taper assembly. Gonna be a little cool to do painting though and don't want to paint inside my little shop as paint spray would be everywhere.
 
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So which QCTP di you go for? (Wedge? Piston?)
Piston as it was a little cheaper and if will work just fine for my hobby piddly nonsense. Worked all day long cleaning, priming and painting the cross slide, headstock and compound. I've "never" seen such caked up crud on anything in my life. I don't believe this lathe has ever been taken apart since mfg in 1944. I was able to get them primered but ran out of paint.
 

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