Spindle motor or controller?

Hello Mike,

I've been watching this thread with interest ! It seems that you have been led up some dark alleys by various companies.

There is no guarantees here, but I will try to help. Lets go back to the beginning, Can you put the wiring back to a condition where you can run the old motor ?

If so looking at the pictures the motor has an adjustable hall sensor system. The three screws in the slotted ring allow the hall sensor to be rotated for maximum speed or maximum power output. Turn the speed right down so that the motor turns and carefully rotate the sensor and see what happens. If the motor stops or tries to run backwards, turn the sensor back and then up the speed a little, and try again.

Tell me what happens.

Almost forgot ! The screw at the top of the picture should not be where it is ! It should be to the left near the other end of the slot.
 
BaronJ,

First off - please know that I appreciate your offer of help, and may need to take you up on it at a later date. Right now I am going to try another angle.

The hall sensor has not been moved (nor have the screws) since I purchased the mill (used) in 2011. This is the first that the motor has been out or the end cap removed since I have had it.

That being said I do not really want to start trouble shooting all over again, without some reason to think a solution could be found that way.

The fact remains that there are no parts available. So, if the problem is the hall sensor, the motor, the drive, a control board, etc. it really does not matter. There are no parts. I think need to replace the entire control (but am not positive).

If you have reason to believe this can be fixed by a means other than complete controller replacement please PM me. Then I would like to set up a phone call so I can have an understanding of what you are thinking (and I am willing to pay you for your efforts). But, I need to hear a plan from start to finish, not one step every 3 or 4 days via forum posting. I don't mean to sound ungrateful, but I have been doing exactly that for 5 months and $1,000 with no results.

At the present, and with all the testing I have done (at others direction) I do not see a solution without (more) new parts.
 
Hi Mike,

I don't think that the controller is at fault, and I was trying to determine if the failure was due to the hall devices by moving them. It could be that one the magnets has become detached and stuck itself to one of the others inside the motor housing.
 
Is there any way to check that other than re-installing it in the mill? I had to modify 2 ribbon cables to try the new motor and it would be a real hassle to change again. Like taking the motor apart or something?

And, if that is the case can it be repaired?

Thanks

(one reason I am looking at the controller is because of a history of brand's history of failed circuit boards.)
 
I had a similar problem with a treadmill motor. (DC permanent mag) I'm not an electrician either and don't know proper part names. But I found a field magnet loose inside housing. Motor would run but didn't run full speed and made rattling noise. I cleaned it up and degreased housing and magnet, epoxied mag back in position. It is now used on a grinder with variable speed and no problems.
 
Sure sounds like what is going on with my motor doesn't it?

I made a feeble attempt at taking the motor apart a few months ago. I could get the ends loose enough that I could turn them and get a feel for the bearings, but could not pull it apart. I didn't try real hard because I didn't want to make anything worse. I think I will try a little harder today.

(knowing the proper names wouldn't do me any good anyway. I wouldn't know what you were talking about no matter what you call it!!)

I am also sending Jim Dawson info & pictures as he has offered to take a close look at it.
 
I got the old motor apart. It all looks mechanically good. No dirt, obvious hot spots or alignment issues. In fact it looks almost new inside.

Does anyone know how to test it independent of the controller and/or drive?
 
You could use an ohm meter to do the simple, obvious checks - make sure all the windings have about the same resistance, low resistance across the contacts of the start winding switch (if any), etc. But you've done this already (Post #3).

As for your original problem with rattling, I guess the only thing you can do is wiggle everything in sight. You mentioned that it turned without discernible resistance when rotated by hand, but rattled under power (ie, with a magnetic field). Try using a strong rare earth magnet to see if any parts are loose. Are there any signs of scuffing or wear on the rotor or stator (from a loose part)?
 
It isn't a "something is loose" rattle. It is a motor function rattle. Please run the video in the first post. Then you can hear it for yourself.


No signs of any damage or wear.
 
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