spiral point taps

I went and checked ebay for Guhring ones.......out of my budget......especially with shipping to Canada basically doubling the price.

-brino
Did the same, you're right, I suppose it would make sense to get the most used sizes if the price was right, we probably would be better off here in Canada to order the drill & tap set :

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/3370445
or
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Norseman-18pc-Metric-Dill-Tap-Set-Spiral-Point-w-Index-MADE-IN-USA-SP-18TDM/142372470222?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
 
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I've never purchased a set, only the size I need, since so many applications require a specific type of tap.
 
Every so often our Canadian Tire has their master craft imperial and metric tap and die set on for a bit time sale. I have that set for when I get the odd occasion that I require a tap or die outside of what I normally use. And they give a life time warranty which seemed absurd to me. So I asked the hardware guy about it and he said yes bring it in we will replace it..even if dull? Yes. These are only carbon steel and are of limited use in my opinion.

All of the small taps that I use are all purchased separately as HSS not carbon steel.

David
 
Paul, if you do, I hope you post the results of this experiment.
After Emilio's post I went and checked ebay for Guhring ones.......out of my budget......especially with shipping to Canada basically doubling the price.

-brino

Brino, I have an order from our suppliers to be sent to Norway in the next week so I might throw some taps in. The Chinese stuff runs about a 1/4 of the price of European for their top shelf products and it's pretty decent. I'll see what Ghüring gear I have so I can order comparable Chinese tools to do a head to head.

I have also looked at their carbide indexible stuff and it's really decent. Even stuff like Mitsubishi carbide inserts can be had for under $2 per insert.

Paul.
 
Every so often our Canadian Tire has their master craft imperial and metric tap and die set on for a bit time sale.

I shamefully admit to buying one of there cheap Metric sets when I was really in need of a tap that day.
It might have been the last tool I ever bought from them it was so 5h!tty!!!

The threads on the taps weren't even square to the shank, I threaded a nut on one and it was at some awful angle.
Now that may NOT have been their "Master Craft" named kit but it was horrible.

Beside I find that store more interested in hawking kitchen products than shop tools.

-brino
 
Have to agree with you brino, should be renamed Canadian Houseware. BUT I did buy one of the afore mentioned sets on a 70% off sale and it has got me out of a few binds. Wouldn't want to try cutting threads in 4140 heat treated but they along with a set from Princess auto have served my metric needs.
Going to order some spiral point taps, have never tried them.

Greg
 
I expect the cognoscenti already know this but I just had to mention it as I was so impressed with the results.
I used a spiral point tap and am amazed how much easier and faster it was.
I started all the holes by hand, they didnt require much in the way of pressure to start and I swear they pulled themselves straight as soon as they started to cut.
I am so impressed that I will purchase a spiral point in all my most used sizes.
I listened to you and got 3 of these spiral taps in the sizes I needed , came home and started tapping, although the brand was not Guhring but I was impressed with the performance of these less expensive FMT-standard taps, they cut easily in cold steel and you're right they feel like they pull themselves straight and effortlessly, thanks for starting this thread.
 
I used to dread tapping and when it came time to do a DRO install on my mill I decided to try spiral flute taps. Ordered metric and imperial YG1 sets off Amazon and fell in love. Will never go back to standard taps.
 
Note that spiral FLUTE taps pull the chips out of the hole, toward the drill chuck. That works well for power or hand tapping BLIND holes. Spiral POINT taps push the chips into the hole. That works well for power or hand tapping THROUGH holes. The idea is to reduce tap loads by not re-cutting chips, which can break taps, especially when power tapping, where there is no "feel". Hand taps do not move the chips anywhere, cutting fluid and gravity influence where the chips end up. All styles can be used for whatever, with more or less good results, but when possible try to use the style which is best for the type of job you are doing.
 
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