If you mean the base there are no bolts except for the center connector piece. The cabinets are like 1/8" material bent and welded together. Tops feels like 1/4" and bottom is more like 3/8 material welded in the recesses of the cabinet for the feet not continuous bottom piece. The shelves are just some 18g maybe welded on the ends. Definitely as cheap as can be done.
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Stability of lathe when off center turning
- Thread starter Cadillac
- Start date
If you mean the base there are no bolts except for the center connector piece. The cabinets are like 1/8" material bent and welded together. Tops feels like 1/4" and bottom is more like 3/8 material welded in the recesses of the cabinet for the feet not continuous bottom piece. The shelves are just some 18g maybe welded on the ends. Definitely as cheap as can be done.
I've thought that might be my situation but have not come up with a way to guarantee which ones are contacting evenly?
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2014
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The wrench should feel like it is applying a similar torque on all the feet, Not the same torque, because the loads are different on each row from left to right and from front to back, but the diagonals should feel fairly equal to the opposite diagonal. Yes, the head stock end is heavier, and the motor is a heavy component, etc, so they will not all be equal. The cabinet also might we warped or not built to equal heights. Understand the various loads and get an idea of what to expect, then consider any discrepancies.
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- Jan 2, 2016
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I have a set of lathe dogs, that the PO brazed some small nuts on each side of the bolt, Then ground some weight off, to balance them.
There is also other styles that could stay in balance easier.
There is also other styles that could stay in balance easier.
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2013
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- 709
I was not happy with the base on the Grizzly G750G. Not sheet metal but kind of narrow in my view.
I added to the bases to provide for a means to adjust the alignment of the bed.
The sheet metal between the bases was just a waste. Filled the space with drawers on significant slides to take weight.
I used 4X4X1/4 angle with adjustable feet. The threaded rod (5/8-18), with a 60 degree cone, sits on a 3/8 thick washer with a centre hole that then sits on a hockey puck. Three per side.
The angles were attached with 3/16 pop rivets to the cast iron of the bases. Bolts on each end. Note that the angles extend almost the same depth of the base to the rear. Resulted in a much more stable operation. Still means you have to balance things!
The adjustment screws were then locked in place against Fine thread nuts that were welded to the angles.
The adjustment screws mated to the heavy washer that sat on the hockey pucks.
Made the adjustment of the bed alignment very easy. Used the two outboard screws and then just snugged up the centre screw.
I added to the bases to provide for a means to adjust the alignment of the bed.
The sheet metal between the bases was just a waste. Filled the space with drawers on significant slides to take weight.
I used 4X4X1/4 angle with adjustable feet. The threaded rod (5/8-18), with a 60 degree cone, sits on a 3/8 thick washer with a centre hole that then sits on a hockey puck. Three per side.
The angles were attached with 3/16 pop rivets to the cast iron of the bases. Bolts on each end. Note that the angles extend almost the same depth of the base to the rear. Resulted in a much more stable operation. Still means you have to balance things!
The adjustment screws were then locked in place against Fine thread nuts that were welded to the angles.
The adjustment screws mated to the heavy washer that sat on the hockey pucks.
Made the adjustment of the bed alignment very easy. Used the two outboard screws and then just snugged up the centre screw.
With my 12x36 lathe on sheet metal cabinets, the cabinets were bolted tight to the lathe without shims. The objective was to use adjustable feet on the cabinets to get them all bearing evenly on the uneven cement floor. Each cabinet has four feet so tuning 8 feet to act together was the crux (like tuning the spokes on a bicycle).
A thin soft aluminum pad was cut for each foot to use as a resident feeler gauge between floor and feet. The aluminum pad is slightly larger than the foot. The soft aluminum gives good traction on the floor and foot. There is less 'flex' in aluminum than in rubber so I avoided rubber completely. From time to time I give the aluminum pads a tap with a small hammer to check for any change in tension on the foot.
When a lathe is not bolted to the floor or wall, it is seriously limited as to how much harmonic vibration it can take. When the lathe starts shaking from imbalance sometimes a change of speed is enough to calm things down. But there is really no substitute for using a counterweight system to get things somewhat in balance even if the lathe is bolted to a solid floor.
A thin soft aluminum pad was cut for each foot to use as a resident feeler gauge between floor and feet. The aluminum pad is slightly larger than the foot. The soft aluminum gives good traction on the floor and foot. There is less 'flex' in aluminum than in rubber so I avoided rubber completely. From time to time I give the aluminum pads a tap with a small hammer to check for any change in tension on the foot.
When a lathe is not bolted to the floor or wall, it is seriously limited as to how much harmonic vibration it can take. When the lathe starts shaking from imbalance sometimes a change of speed is enough to calm things down. But there is really no substitute for using a counterweight system to get things somewhat in balance even if the lathe is bolted to a solid floor.
What is the floor made of for you to expect movement?
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Or filling them with sand?
I’m not worried of the floor moving. 10yr old garage I poured the foundation and 6” thick. I do worry about seasonal changes though. Between the lathe and the floor I’m sure they move a touch. I’m gonna look at the construction of the cabinet alittle closer to see if there worth strengthening or just make new ones.