Stamping/engraving Caliber On Rifle Barrel

RIO

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As far as I can tell, here are the options for putting the caliber on a newly-installed barrel on a bolt gun (or otherwise):
1.) Use a hammer and letter/number stamps to stamp it in with impact
2.) Buy a "new hermes" type engraver and engrave it on yourself
3.) Take it to an engraver/jeweler and have them do it for you
4.) Use a CNC mill
5.) Electro-chemical-etching options

#1 isn't the most modern, neat way to do it. It's too easy to get the letters crooked, and the alignment jigs seem to be either discontinued (B square) or are reported to not work well. I want something that looks better, and more professional than this method anyway.
#2 is probably the most affordable, realistic option, but I don't know anything about what is the best model to buy, what attachments/fonts to get, or what it should cost.....or how to use it.
#3 is probably a good way to do it, but it requires you to allow probably a few days of delay with the barrel at the engraver shop, transport time, and cost. Also, I've tried and just can't find a shop locally that has done this before.
#4 Looks great, but way too much money, and too much setup time.
#5 Looking like a possible option.

#6 Is there a way anyone is doing this with a laser engraver of any sort, or any other better methods for about $500 or less?

I need to decide and take action on how I'm going to start doing this soon. Maybe should just buy a stamp kit and do it the simple, quick, cheap way for now.

Advice?
Other threads already about this?
 
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I can't really offer any professional advice, but I'll give my two cents worth anyway. I have had the same issue with different items and I've used solutions #1 and #3 and as you've noted there are issues with both. One thing I definitely disagree with is your last statement, "Maybe should just buy a stamp kit and do it the simple, quick, cheap way for now". As a customer, when I purchase a rifle barrel, I am expecting a precision made piece of equipment with the best possible craftsmanship. If I saw very poor engraving, it would be an indication to me of possible poor craftsmanship elsewhere. I think you should do whatever it takes to get a professional engraving job on your barrels until you come up with a viable solution for doing it yourself. I think that one little "touch of class" could have a lasting effect on your reputation.

Ted
 
Looks like you've covered all the options short of a label maker and a sharpie.;)
Option #1 is down right tacky doing it one character at a whack, they almost never come out straight.
Option #2 is what I use. It gives some class to a first class job, and gives more options in size and fonts. I started out using the diamond tipped drag type engraver, and later changed over to the electric pencil. It makes better marks that can be seen distinctly especially on matte finished barrels.
engraver.jpg
Option #3 wouldn't be bad if you had a local engraver that still uses that kind of equipment. Most trophy shops and such have now went to cnc engraving machines and most will only do flat surfaces. Another big problem is work holding device for barrels.The New Hermes come with basic vee blocks and interchangable jaws for common things like watches and bracelets. I had to make a swiveling vee block in the vise jaws to accommodate tapered barrels.engravervise.jpg
Option#4 not only would expensive, but complicated as well. Trying to code fonts over a curved surface that is tapered to boot would require some hi dollar software.
The beauty of the panto-graph is that it will follow the surface if the diameter is not too small. I have used the rotary cutter attachment, but it has limitations following the radius before it loses depth and won't cut.
Option #5, I've never done it, but it still looks like you need something for font options. Some of the older versions used a stencil that was made on a type writer.....besides that ,I think it looks cheap.
 
I have a pantograph engraver... I don't like it all that much.

I have just replaced my 4 axis foam cutter. Now I have left overs. At 6400 steps to the inch on both X an Y axis I'd be temped to lay them on their side spaced above the table and hang a laser on it if I had enough work for it. Run it from Mach3.
 
Derf, thanks for the explanation and pictures. I like your setup, and the best anyone has explained the options I've seen on any website.
What model New Hermes is that you use? Did you buy the "electric pencil" as a separate thing? What kind of bit does it take?
What kind of cost would it be to get this all set up like yours? Ebay?
How deep does it engrave, and have you tried Cerakoting over it?
What size characters works best on a barrel, for example: 1/16", 3/32", or bigger? Probably different for different diameters, I'm guessing (i.e., HV vs Sporter contours).

Thanks for the words.
RIO
 
The BATFE has all the legal engraving requirements at atf.gov. Meeting those requirements covers any issues with Cerakote or other finishes. Concerns about software and fonts aren't an issue, even with tapered barrels.

Most of the real jewelers around me have the equipment to do this, but they're expensive. The techniques mentioned work, with the mentioned issues.

Jeff

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Etching 101

I also know a guy that sells templates, takes one big step out.
 

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The unit I have is a desk top model, but I couldn't find a model # on it. I know this is a popular size though. The base is 12" x 14". The "electric" pencil is just a Dremel ultrasonic engraver found at many hardware supplies. It has 5 settings for intensity, and it will engrave deep enough on the highest setting to resemble a roll stamp. The font sizes can be adjusted proportionately by ratio on the panto graph. The font shown in the prior picture uses 5/8" copy, with the ratio set at 5:1 the actually character is 1/8".
Most of the units that I've seen for sale run in the $350-400 range, and font copy around $150-200 a set.
dremengrave.jpg
 
Derf,

That looks like a New Hermes IM-3. I notice in your pictures that you have the motor assymbly still on the machine. Did you ever try engraving using the motor driven spindle and either HSS or Carbide bits before you adapted to use the impact ethcher?

I'm asking because I am looking at the same machine now, for the same use and trying to decide if I need to factor in cost to retrofit or if I would be good with the quality of lettering using the spindle.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
The motorized spindle works fine for flat work, but it does not follow the contours of a barrel very well. The spindle nose controls the depth of cut, and when it rolls over a radius it prevents the cutter from contact.
rotary spindle.jpg

I use the motorized spindle mostly to cut my own copy. I cut this copy on to a piece of formica, by simply tracing a logo on a gun box. At a 5:1 reduction, the errors are less noticeable.
copy.jpg
 
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