Starrett precision level

I think you have missed the boat on what was originally asked. But I thank you for your response nonetheless.
This is what I consider machine shop humor much like Free Holes, 30 years in the business gives one a different perspective.
 
they are suitable for rough leveling of machinery, but not so for fine leveling, such as is necessary for a lathe bed, for instance.

Lathes really don't need to be level at all. It is only necessary to have the bed in proper alignment with the spindle to insure that the machine cuts true (no taper). The leveling screws on the base of the lathe are used to accomplish this goal.

Ted
 
Not to worry too much over rust removal so far as doing damage is concerned, the vial on that model is graduated at .005" per foot, not the .0005" of the "precision level". The model 98 is several steps above a carpenter's level and an ordinary combination square level, but far from the accuracy of a true precision level; they are suitable for rough leveling of machinery, but not so for fine leveling, such as is necessary for a lathe bed, for instance.

Seems like it’s actually .005 per 10”.
 
Seems like it’s actually .005 per 10”.
Plenty good enough for leveling a lathe used for making parts that will stay in the earth's gravitational field. Still, not the high precision model, hope you did not pay too dearly for it...

Sometimes it is important to count the zeros after the decimal point... :eek 2:
 
Lathes really don't need to be level at all. It is only necessary to have the bed in proper alignment with the spindle to insure that the machine cuts true (no taper). The leveling screws on the base of the lathe are used to accomplish this goal.

Ted
Not entirely true; consider a lathe with 3 sets of legs, that method does not work, twist and sag are issues that need to be dealt with by other means, such as leveling or laser alignment. In my shop, I had two machines with intermediate legs that had to be leveled to insure proper alignment.
 
Clean off the crud using whatsoever works. It probably will not read the same if you turn it end for end. We are looking for coplanar, level is relative. Set the level on the ways the same way on both ends - square with bed, end of level same both ends. As said before, a level will get you close, the two collar dials it in. I may get chastised, but I have a machinist friend who sold his "precision" level because it was so "good"you just chased it around. As a tool, the machinist level is fine. Sometime we toss around tenths as if that is way off. Most of us don't have tools to measure tenths in any real sense, or tools that can actually reliability cut to those tolerances - you are looking at good grinders to get there, not lathes and mills (and not our kinds of lathes and mills).

No one buys a tool to keep it in a drawer. Yes, we all want to find the guy who did, then died and the family doesn't know that whatever it is was bought years ago for 10x what they are asking for (or has no clue). If we, as hobby guys, are whining around about use as an argument for reduced value as a negotiating tool that may be one thing, but if we really think it, we are probably full of crap. If it has to look like new, go buy it that way - but don't complain about price or quality (wih the understanding that those are probably at odds with each other). Off of soapbox, reality check statement complete.
 
Seems like a question about removing some rust from a machined surface has morphed into a verbal lashing of all the tools polishers out there. Shame on you guys that polish your stuff and not use it. Let me know when you want to sell them though. ;)
 
I leveled my 19" Regal lathe with a #98 level, so that the bubble was exactly the same at both ends of the bed, it cut with a taper; I re leveled it with the precision Pratt & Whitney level with .0005 graduation, it then cut straight; accuracy and sensitivity do make a difference.
As to polishing, I have no problem with it if the purpose is to remove rust; a lot of old tools get rusty, I see nothing wrong with making a tool look as it originally did; rust is not attractive!
 
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