Starrett precision level

Doc, I would second Bob's recommendation for Evaporust. I've only been using it for the last year or two but that stuff is pretty amazing. If you put the level in a pan and pour in just enough to cover the rusty parts, it should do the trick. Otherwise, I use synthetic steel wool, #000, with WD-40. Gets the rust off quickly without damaging the parent metal.

For what its worth, the Starrett 98 is not a very sensitive level but if someone were to give me one, I'd grab it in a heartbeat.
 
Don’t need to remove rust. This is the level. Should be good enough for me. Thanks for the recommendations. Thanks for help. Thanks for misinterpreted humor.

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Was there supposed to be a pic of the level, Doc?

Here we were, stumbling over ourselves trying to tell you how we would remove the rust and there ain't no rust? Sort of feels like we've been deprived or something ...
 
mikey said:
Was there supposed to be a pic of the level, Doc?

Here we were, stumbling over ourselves trying to tell you how we would remove the rust and there ain't no rust? Sort of feels like we've been deprived or something ...
Click to expand...

Sorry for the disappointment. Was given a better condition 12”. I think it’s the same precision as all the Starrett 98. Although looking online I did see a high precision Starrett 98 that was the 10 second accuracy. Must have some type of hybrid. Anyways, this should be plenty good for me.

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I have a 98-6 and it's a nice little level. I'm sure yours will serve you well.
 
I have found that if I use the 98 starrett level first to get the lathe close then use my .0005 level it is alot easier and faster to get level than if i start with the .0005 level to begin with. Seems once it is close its easier for me to fine tune it in.
 
Hi Guys,

I've used the two collar method, as described in the Myford handbook for years ! At the end of the day, as long as the lathe turns a parallel shaft its job done. I find that even if the lathe does move, and it will, it only takes a few minutes to get it back to true.

Rather than buying an expensive test bar ! This is technique that I use.

That is to keep the test bar with the two collars on it, but mark it so the you know which jaw goes where. I use jaw one and when I made the two collars, I made sure that the test bar went just past the back of the jaws. So when putting it back in the chuck it is in exactly the same place as when I first made it and got the lathe turning true. This is to account for the slight run out in the chuck.

From now on it is just a matter of using a DTI in the tool post and checking each collar. The collar nearest the chuck is the reference collar and the one at the tailstock end will show any run out. Tweak the tailstock end as needed to get back to parallel again.

NOTE: My test bar started life as a 13" length of 1" diameter silver steel (drill rod in the USA).
 
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