Static Phase Converters On Ebay

Yup, In at the top, Out at the bottom. You could mount it on the wall, on a metal plate spaced off of the wall an inch. The one on my mill is the same way, and it just sits in open air. Been there for 3 years. A grinder is a bit different, the particles are finer so you want to make sure it's out of the line of fire.

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Since I'm plugging it into a receptacle, I'd rather have the unit on the grinder, wired to the motor. I'll see if I can figure out a way to rig it high on the machine, to keep it a little clear of the dust.
 
wawoodman said:
It came today. I'm a little concerned about the configuration. It has the line in on top of the unit, and line out, below. Or possibly the other way around. Bu in any case, it seems to me that having wiring going into screw/squeeze terminal blocks on top is asking for stuff to fall into them. My Hitachi has both input and output on the bottom.

Am I overthinking this? I'm also wondering about a mounting location.
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i would first contact the mfg or seller about any wiring and mounting concerns. i would think that any electrical enclosure would have provisions for securing the wiring and protecting the internals. did you get instructions with this? they usually have a start button incorporated in the unit so it will need to be mounted near your grinder. most grinders throw sparks to the left, so i would mount the box on the right side if possible. if your still unsure, contact someone who is familiar with electrical installations. don't take chances.
 
That's the odd part, Larry. They certainly seem to be designed to be mounted in the open: nice finished cases, buttons, viewscreens, etc. why, then, would they put the wiring into the top?

My grinder spins CCW, so it throws to the right. I think I can mount the VFD high on the left.
 
I think you'll be fine with that. I mounted mine on an aluminum plate a little bigger than the VFD. That way I had a place to use cord grips to being the wires through and anchor them to the plate.
 
I think the vfd is designed to be in an enclosure that is why it is feed from the top and bottom so it is easier to keep separation between the supply lines and motor output - i would mount the unit in a enclosure and then connect a start / stop button to be easily accessed from wherever and you could also add a remote speed control if you want to have that feature. for the remote speed control i mean a 5k potentiometer/ pot mounted to the machine where you can access it - the vfd will support a remote pot with 3 wires - it is important to have the vfd in a enclosure to keep the dirt and dust off of it. any bits of metal that get inside will kill it. also when ever you work on the electrical make sure the feed line is disconnected from power. all it takes is just one short to ruin the unit.
Mitch

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I made the box for the delta vfd and mounted it out of the way, the remote controls are mounted up on the mills head. the speed control is really cool as i dont have to stop the mill to go faster or slower just turn the knob.
Mitch
 
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Looking for a phase converter for the 618 . This info still good ? :dunno: Maybe I should re-phrase that , is this the easiest route to go for something that possibly won't be around long ? I remember the little gray boxes with the red sticker on them years back before I got the RPC , but looking for something cheap just to start the grinder .
 
The static phase converters work. I have one on my South Bend heavy 10 as it came with the machine. It is a little noisy (buzz) but fine otherwise, Despite the only ⅔ horsepower, I've never stalled the lathes motor.
 
I have one Rotary Phase converter that I use to power all of my machines. I can only run one machine at a time so it is never overloaded. I still have a power disconnect on each machine in addition to the start button. It is all wired up just like if I had 3PH power coming into the shop. It has been working great for the last 20 years. If it dies I will get a VFD to replace it.

Now days you see many motors that will say inverter duty on them. Old motors do not have this because inverters were not yet invented when the motor was made. Most VFDs are inverters. Some of the cheap VFDs do not do a good job of filtering the output. I costs money to filter the output. The way that the 3PH is generated causes a lot of approx 340V spikes that are turned on and off at hight frequency and the average of all the spikes ends up aproximating the sine wave of a true 220 3PH. This is called PWM. Some older 220V only motors can not handle the 340V spikes and that is why the insulation breaks down. If your old motor is a 220/440 V motor you will be fine because the insulation was designed to handle the 440V.
 
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