Stuck MT3/ MT 2 sleeve

lakebom184

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Dec 18, 2016
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Hi recently purchased a Craftsman 101.28910 from an estate in very nice condition. The dillema is the MT3/MT2 sleeve is stuck in the spindle. Have pounded with an appropriate steel rod, used Kroil, PB blaster, etc, carefully heated the spindle with a propane torch but nohing works. Am terrified of pounding harder or heating to a hotter temp because of possible very bad consequences. Was told original owner( pro woodworker}only used machine to turn wood. The lead screw and the compound were not on the machine, but in a different room. Don't know if that has any relation to the problem. Grateful for any help. Thank you!
Bill
 
Perhaps pounding is not the answer (though shock can be helpful) but direct force applied? Might be worth thinking bout supporting the spindle so that the end of the adapter is clear but the spindle itself restrained, and then applying force to the adapter. A captive bolt fed through the spindle to engage the adapter, then a bar and nut on the other side might do it, or if you have a friend with a press that could help as well.

The draw bar with nut is a favourite technique of mine for extracting bushings from recalcitrant items when working on old English cars. Heating the spindle on the outside while holding tension on the adapter might help as well.

Hope this helps - Al.
 
Thanks! Like the drawbar idea. Perhaps a bolt going through a threaded piece against the head stock with proper clearance. I have a press but dread removing the spindle. Thanks again!
Bill
 
Why not machine (bore) it out? If you cut away most of it, using the same taper with your compound, it will most likely loosen up when you get it thin enough. Just don't cut into your spindle bore.

Ted
 
Like stated in earlier post slide bolt thru washer just smaller than spindle then another washer or bar.tighten bolt.then wait..maybe hit bolt head every so often will come loose without removing spindle..
 
A bolt or stud through the spindle, the faceplate installed, and a spacer between the faceplate and a nut and washer will allow you to jack the adapter out without any stress on the spindle bearings.
 
if all else fails, i have 2 methods to assist

method 1:
liberally spray phosphoric acid on both sides of the adapter, inside the spindle.
allow 6 to 8 hours or even overnight for the phosphoric to go to work.
after the rest period, find a suitable beatin' instrument and get a rod close to bore tolerance (steel and bronze work best) and give a swing from behind the ear.
phosphoric acid is safe for iron, it is interested in rust and doesn't quickly damage raw iron.
it can etch if the rest period increases for multiple days

if method 1 should fail
shoot inside spindle and the mt adapter with brake kleen or carburetor cleaner to remove residues
create a mixture, in equal parts, ATF -Acetone- Kerosene
the acetone increases the wetting of the automatic transmission fluid and kerosene.
if you slather the adapter and spindle up real good and reapply for a week or so, the adapter just may bump out with a swift smack

i suppose both methods could also be used in conjunction with a drawbar approach too

in any event, i wish the best of luck
 
There is a remote possibility that the adapter was glued in. Epoxy, cyanoacrylate, or LocTite would be possible suspects. In all three cases, heat would break the bond. If the jacking operation doesn't work, I would try some heat with it.

In a similar vein, I have had issues breaking tapered joints in tie rod ends on vehicles. I have found applying a strong biasing force in conjunction with a sharp rap with a hammer to be effective.
 
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