Tachometers with hall proximity sensor question

It should make no difference if you use use 2 or 3 as the negative/connection of the blue wires, they are internally connected on the board. Anyway you can try the connections below, also make sure the plug to the board is inserted correctly the two grooves line up with the raised parts on the socket.
Tach.jpg
 
Hi, mksj comments about noise are appropriate. Make sure that none of the sensor or Tach wires are close to the motor or motor power wires. If you really cannot do this and do not have access to the shielded wires then we can put a filter at the power input of the Tack and the sensor. That would help to reduce the effect of any motor noise. Do you have access to any capacitors and resistors? Do you have a soldering iron? We might steal components out of some dead electronics, but you will still need a soldering iron and solder. If so I can send you another sketch.

As far as the Blue wires above, I too assume that their is an internal connection between 2 and 3, but who knows for sure what is inside these cheap boxes. I prefer to be sure by connecting them up out side. You can make both connections. I liked the Digiten picture as I know that worked. It clearly shows that for their devices it does not need 5 terminals. The CF5135C numbers and labels are rather ambiguous.
 
B2 said:
Do you have access to any capacitors and resistors? Do you have a soldering iron? We might steal components out of some dead electronics, but you will still need a soldering iron and solder. If so I can send you another sketch.
Click to expand...
I do have a soldering iron and an washing machine controle panel that I took of my old warning machine,but I know NOTHING about caps and resistors or how to identify them though.
 
Generally, no. Only way to tell would be to have more test equipment. However, you could use it if the 12V battery was attached though. That should work well enough for a test, I would imagine. For a more permanent solution you need to buy a power supply like a Meanwell APV 12-12. That is a 12VDC Constant Voltage 1A power supply. The constant voltage is important.

Have an old router or network power supply? Sometimes they are 12VDC. Or an old PC power supply?
 
The tool battery would be fine. Actually good and should last a long time before needing a recharge. Look at the tool and the battery terminals and figure out the + and -. Do not wire it in backwards as this will burn things out. Not the charger as they are usually more complex and the voltage is not constant, but a function of the battery state and charging time.

Some old wall warts, for the router or network boxes are not always very good supplies, some are cheaply made. It is hard to tell from just looking at them. Anway some of them have a lot of 60 ripple on the output, and the box that is designed for them clean this up. Others are great. It just depends.
 
Before worrying about the capacitors and resistors, try the battery and the wires that are not close to the power lines for the motor nor the motor.
 
Don't know why I didn't think of a 12V tool battery. Much better to try. Afterall, at this point we are just trying to prove anything works.

Old network supplies/wall warts are only valid to try if you had nothing else. As @B2 said, they often are not very good. However, sometimes "not very good" is still a lot better than nothing! Lots of stuff can be accomplished using non-optimal solutions.
 
A electrician kliënt of mine gave me this. I will hoock it up as soon as I get a chance and move wires around and all the other recommendations and report back as soon as possible.
20210915_102518.jpg
 
OK. I hope it does not have too much 60 cycle ripple on its output. If it does not work you may still want to try the battery. Recall what I said about the wall wart style power supplies. Some of them are not well regulated nor filtered at the output so the DC voltage is not very pure. What they put out is a DC level with a lot of 60 cylce AC voltage on top of the DC. What we know about your drill battery is that when disconnected from the charger there is no source of 60 cycle so the DC voltage is very pure.

Good luck.
Dave
 
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