Talk about a total fail...

I can't believe how thin I got it without breaking through.
 
It doesn't apply here but same concept; Lee Valley used to have a tool for wood turners to avoid thin section break-thru when making vases, etc.
It consisted of a laser pointer held on an arm over top the work that you would adjust to point and the end the turning tool.
Then when the tool is deep in the hollow cylinder you had a laser dot on the outside side-wall to indicate where the tool tip was.
Obviously if the laser dot ever got to the front face of your work you would break thru.

I wanted to provide a link, but I don't see that offered any more........

Rockler has this:
http://www.rockler.com/carter-hollow-roller-laser-guide
but no picture of it in use!

okay here's one being used......
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/hollowing-tools.html
it's huge system to hold the tool "flat" since if you roll it you would change the angle of the laser and the dot would lie to you.

-brino
 
Oh man, at first glance it looked like that guy was in traction, turning a vase. Lol
Neat idea. A much smaller rig could be built on a tool post since all the tooling is rigid. But you know, I could also just be more careful with my calculations. Haha
 
Why neck it down, you only need to neck down the thread area. There's no harm leaving i wider, and it probably absorbs more vibration. The original design with full size out to the threaded area seems like the best solution, you are turning on the spindle eliminating as much of the runnout as possible.... And if you feel for looks you must neck it down, the taper it to remove the stress riser.
Just my two cents.
 
I created the relief behind the thread because I cannot use my half nuts when threading. I have to forward and reverse the lathe. Definitely not an exact science for start and stop positions.
 
I created the relief behind the thread because I cannot use my half nuts when threading. I have to forward and reverse the lathe. Definitely not an exact science for start and stop positions.
I was not talking about the threading, you reduced the material quite alot and quite quickly. What was the need to do that?
If you redo it again. only reduce it near your threads for the collet. And when you do taper it, you will have a much stronger tool, and it will have mass that absorbs vibration better. And you eliminate the stress riser.
 
I think I see what you're saying, just leave more meat. If I have to have a relief, make it shorter closer to the thread?
Maybe I'm missing what you're saying.
My plan now is to leave it beefier. More material left on the piece
 
Turning an inside thread to a shoulder is hard... But I now have a spindle stump..

Next step...
IMG_20171029_123934.jpg
 
There are these really high tech tools to help prevent going through the walls of your work. They are called "spring calipers". They can be sprung to get into or out of a tight space without changing the nut setting, then allowed to spring back to the nut for measuring the gap between the measuring surfaces. Extremely easy to use, and quite accurate after practicing a bit with known sizes and then getting the "feel" of the proper contact pressure into muscle memory. They can also be used to check wall thicknesses of things like bell and vase shapes with compound curves if the caliper shape will fit the spaces. It helps to have a number of these calipers in different sizes and shapes to fit oddball stuff. Firm joint calipers are another version of this tool type, also very useful at times. Old school machinists used spring calipers constantly while at the lathe and while doing other work. Quickly, too. Too bad those useful skills have mostly passed into memory, but the good side is that these tools are now available quite inexpensively, including beautifully made vintage Brown & Sharpe, Lufkin, and Starrett ones. They are just as useful today as they were 100+ years ago, no batteries required...
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ers&qpvt=spring+firm+joint+calipers&FORM=IGRE
I have about 20 of them, so far, and am always looking for others at a good price and in decent condition that I do not yet have.
 
Yeah, I have a bunch of those. I just generally refer back to mics and telescoping guages.
 
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