I use a scrap block of whatever is handy (aluminum, wood, plastic) drill a series of holes spaced about 1/4" spacing and drop the taps in by the shank, leaving the threading portion up. Arrange from small to large and you can get real close to your desired size with just a glance. I've tried to sort further, separate blocks for fine vs coarse thread, but that never stays sorted for long.....
This is what I do also. Live not having to hunt down the proper drill.I use those flat plastic divider boxes like some people use for fishing tackle. Each compartment holds one or more taps, tap drill (so I don't have to search separately for the tap drill), and die for a size.
I use the prescription plastic containers like Rick also--I also label them size and tpi and I keep a container of the same size nuts and a container of the small cap screws all together--it keeps me from hunting for the nuts and bolts after tapping--DaveI use discarded prescription bottles for the really small ones. Works great for drill bits too. Destroy the label and mark the outside with a Sharpie.
Holy crap that's fancy!I am a little late with a reply but finally here if you are still interested. Tap storage has always bugged me as an old machinist once told me that to let taps bang against each other was just like allowing reamers to bang against each other. They get chipped and dulled. Good taps are expensive and cheap taps aren't worth having unless you like headaches. So as soon as my Kennedy tool chest set arrived I made this tray to sort my "taps in use". Taper, plug, and bottoming in all popular sizes and taper and bottoming in less used sizes. It is quick and easy to find what you want, and return to storage when finished. They are protected and at a glance you can spot what is NOT there. Never leave the tap in the drill box again. Downside is it is rather large and bulky. I seem to do a great amount of tapping so in my case anyway, the space spent is a good investment. Duplicate taps are separated and stored by size in a little multidrawer storage box.
Slots were cut on the mill with round end mills. After I cut the major length I deepened the cut about 1/4 of the length on the return. This allows me to touch the end of the tap and have the other end pop up for me to grab. Labeling was done with a hand held tape labeler. I cheated, as I started with a piece of prefinished plywood with a wood grain pattern salvaged from a cabinet shop trash can.
View attachment 62338
As you can see the tray takes up a little over half the drawer leaving room for tap handles, upper right-pipe dies 1/8" to 1", tap guides, "T" handles, a few ACME square thread taps and a small box of duplicate small taps. Also left in the drawer, but not shown, are several different charts and slip sticks showing recommended drill and clearance hole sizes. I always tried to keep it simple for my guys, so when screw-ups happened there were less excuses.