Taper attachment question

[mwhite]

Hello I have a 1963 heavy 10 toolroom lathe. The machine is in overall good shape for it's age. It has some play in the cross slide. When I use the taper attachment it starts off cutting straight then goes to a taper. Leaving a straight piece of material on my taper. The taper is rough also. About 2/3 of the way up the taper attachment angle plate the carriage bindes up. No problems when not using the attachment. What is going on? What should I look for? Is my play causing the problems? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[benmychree]

The part about turning straight at first is common, it is usually wear in the cross feed screw and nut; you have to start further to the right to eliminate the straight part.. As to roughness, I'd first look at the cutting tool.. as to the binding, perhaps take it all apart, clean and adjust things until it all operates smoothly without looseness.

 

[mwhite]

Thank you. I was using a new carbide insert. I really thought it was because of the play. Just wanted to see if I was on the right track. Thanks for your reply.

 

[BtoVin83]

Cut down hill, towards the tailstock. That way the backlash is taken out. If you have to thread it then it gets interesting.

 

[mwhite]

Cut down hill, towards the tailstock. That way the backlash is taken out. If you have to thread it then it gets interesting.

Tha

Cut down hill, towards the tailstock. That way the backlash is taken out. If you have to thread it then it gets interesting.

Cut down hill, towards the tailstock. That way the backlash is taken out. If you have to thread it then it gets interesting.

That's interesting. I've never thought of that but I'll give it a shot. Thank you for your reply

 

[BtoVin83]

If you have to cut threads my dad made a gizmo that locked in the cross slide dovetails and put a spring between it and the cross slide. This takes the backlash out of the cross slide and makes it a dream when retracting the tool as the spring helps the retraction. This was on a Cincinnati lathe that the cross slide screw was double wore out.

 

[benmychree]

On the South Bend lathes that I have worked on with taper attachments, there is a lever on top of the slotted bar that is on top of the taper attachment, when it is locked down, it eliminates the lost motion between the cross feed screw and nut, eliminating most of the straight cut before tapering takes place.

 

[mwhite]

If you have to cut threads my dad made a gizmo that locked in the cross slide dovetails and put a spring between it and the cross slide. This takes the backlash out of the cross slide and makes it a dream when retracting the tool as the spring helps the retraction. This was on a Cincinnati lathe that the cross slide screw was double wore out.

Thank you very much. I've seen some ingenious inventions related to machining. My idea is to replace the nut a screw for the cross slide first. Thanks for your reply.

 

[mwhite]

On the South Bend lathes that I have worked on with taper attachments, there is a lever on top of the slotted bar that is on top of the taper attachment, when it is locked down, it eliminates the lost motion between the cross feed screw and nut, eliminating most of the straight cut before tapering takes place.

Thanks, I've noticed that it is better when locked down also.

 

[Janderso]

I replaced the compound screw and nut on my 13 single. I was so impressed with my new machine I ordered the cross screw and nut. Mr. Miller and I have become friends lol.
Your taper attachment intrigues me. I have only seen them online for the price of a used car. I'll be watching to see if you dial her in.
Don't give up, I would love to have one.