Tell me what Atlas Lathe I have...

steamfins

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Hi,
New to the forum and Lathe operation but interested to learn!

I have inherited this lathe and associated tools. I know it's an Atlas but don't know the model or year. No serial number plate. Would be interesting in finding out what I have and if parts are available?
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The tool post seems to be a little low and I can't seem to get tool adjusted to the correct height. I assume this is an aftermarket part so maybe it doesn't fit correctly with this lathe?? Not sure, but I'm happy to put some money into her to make her a usable machine so any recommendations are appreciated.

I'll be using it mainly to make bushings in 660 bronze and some mild steel spacers. Nothing spectacular, just starting simple to learn the ropes.

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Dan
 
Lack of auto cross feed, 10 d.
Serial # at right hand end, top nearside of front way, V(4/5 #'s)(maybe a letter).
EG: V 19666S.
Correct, the turret tool post is not original. If it's too low, shim it up.
 
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I have NO idea on the lathe, but I see car sliders, and a pie crust tire that looks interesting :)
 
It appears the tool post has a simple type of cam-lock. And it looks rather abused. If it doesn't solidly secure the tool post, that is going to create serious problems with getting a good finish. Especially with the brazed carbide tool shown in the cutting position.

Craig
 
Babbit bearing, vertical counter shaft, 10” diameter, center to center maybe 24”. What is the length of the bed? 48” overall?
10D series lathe.
Is the leadscrew 5/8” or 3/4” diameter? 10D used the 5/8” and the later 10F used 3/4”. Only the 3/4” leadscrew was still available from Clausing years ago.
Mine had been changed to the 3/4” prior to my buying it and I purchased the remaining parts to put in the power crossfeed.

Use steel shims like feeler gauges to shim the tool to the right height. The 4 tool post seems like a good idea but troublesome in use. Most end up using a QCTP and assorted holders with the cutting tool set to the right height and ready to go. AXA is the correct size.


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Thanks for all the help. So it's an Atlas 10D. Probably from the 1940"s? I'll be back out there later today and get you some measurements of the bed and lead screw diameter.

I agree the tool post is in bad shape and is actually loose. The way to go seems to be a Wedge style QCTP. Any recommendations on brands?

I also noticed the backlash on the cross slide and compound was quite a bit. I assume I'll need to replace the Brass nuts the acme screws run in? Are these available?

One other issue was the backlash on the hand wheel for the carriage. It's got an 1/8 of turn free movement before anything happens. Any idea on what needs to be repaired there?

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Dan
 
Yes, it is a 10D, with a serial number of 3970 or higher, based upon the later compound swivel with the two square-head bolts and the inverted cone pintle (not visible) on the cross slide. However, the model number, which was originally stamped on a name plate attached to the rear of the bed near the center, is either 1036, 1042, 1048 or 1054, depending upon bed length. And possibly with a suffix "D". Or there is a D stamped to the left of the serial number. Model numbers beginning with "H", "V" or "T" would only be found on a 10F.

There is a part missing from the cross feed screw, a 3/8"-24 Jam Nut. It goes between the crank and the dial. You can tell that it is missing because (a) you don't see it and (b) because there are too many threads visible on the exposed end of the cross-feed screw. A jam nut is about 1/3 of the thickness of a standard hex nut.

When you have installed the jam nut, you adjust the end float of the cross-feed screw by first running the cross-feed nut off of the end of the screw and then differential adjustment of the two nuts. You should be able to get the end float of the cross-feed screw down to 0.002" or 0.003". The screw should turn freely. And if you loosen the slotted dial lock screw, so should the dial. Get into the habit of pulling the dial toward you while tightening its lock screw.

Next step is to pull the cross slide toward you while turning the cross feed crank CCW. Continue turning the crank CCW until you just see the far end of the cross-feed screw (chip guard must be removed of course). Zero the dial with the crank held lightly with CCW pressure applied. Turn the crank CW until you feel the screw threads once again contacting the nut threads. Note the dial reading. Given that the only time that the cross slide and nut would ever be in this position would be for this test or otherwise disengaging the screw and nut, there will be negligible wear on the screw. Subtract the screw end float and running clearance of new screw and nut and the remainder is nut thread wear. Turn the crank CCW until the cross slide is back to where it spends most of its time. Lightly turn the crank CW and note the reading when screw and nut threads are again in contact. The difference between the two dial readings is the screw wear.
 
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