Test 1U Universal

Dave

Most of the crud in the coolant sump is probably water soluble, so Simple Green or Awesome from the Dollar Store would work pretty well. Just let it soak for about a week to loosen everything up. If you need a solvent tank to clean parts, you can bring the parts out to my place. I don't have any chemical restrictions here. We could bring the whole frame out here to my shop and give it a bath with the pressure washer.

As far as the other items go, use a good EP moly grease in those areas that require grease. If I remember correctly the spindle bearings are lubed from the main gear box (I could be wrong about this) so a hypoid gear oil should be fine there. I use 95-140 ( I think) in my auto lube on my mill, it seems to stay on the ways and leadscrews just fine.

Jim
 
Thanks guys!

I managed to clean the sump pretty well with Simple Green and a giant brush from the homebrew shop mounted on my drill for agitation and scrubbing power, and then I sucked out the crud with my shop vac. If and when I ever use the coolant pump I'll cycle the oil through a funnel with a filter screen for a while until it comes out completely free of debris.

Should I dump some oil in there just to keep it from getting exposed to air?

Today I removed the motor again to check the bearings, and they're shot. I'll pull them off the shaft tomorrow and try to find a new set. The strange part about the motor is the mounting holes are part of the end castings, instead of the center part. I'm not sure how to get it back together properly again, but maybe I'm overthinking it.

Also, I pulled the power feed gearbox today, and tomorrow I'm going to open it up and take a look at the insides. Its oil level was low when I bought it and I think it probably isn't pretty inside. The drain is directly above the motor, so I imagine that it has original oil inside. Just a guess.

The ugly green paint is flaking off easily, exposing the lovely silver original paint. As I clean the machine, I'm removing any green paint that that isn't clinging on for dear life. Eventually it will look badass!

Tomorrow I plan to drain the gearbox so I can access the spindle again and take a look at the bearings. When I refill the gearbox, should I fill up to the sight glass or to the bottom of the screw threads of the filler hole? To the sight glass takes about 2-1/2 gallons of gear oil, and to the filler hole I'm thinking maybe up to 5 gallons. I bought a 5 gallon pail of oil, so it's too easy to just pour the rest in if that's what it needs.
 
David, if you want I can ask for details about your machine (and original documentation, perhaps) on the CncItalia forum.
 
Should I dump some oil in there just to keep it from getting exposed to air?
I would spray the sump with WD-40 just to keep the exposed metal from rusting. Maybe there is a better product for this?:anyone:


Today I removed the motor again to check the bearings, and they're shot. I'll pull them off the shaft tomorrow and try to find a new set. The strange part about the motor is the mounting holes are part of the end castings, instead of the center part. I'm not sure how to get it back together properly again, but maybe I'm overthinking it.

That could explain why the motor was getting hot. Check with McGuire Bearing, they have a pretty good stock of everything. Give me a call if you get too confused about reassembly, I like puzzles.


When I refill the gearbox, should I fill up to the sight glass or to the bottom of the screw threads of the filler hole?
I would think the center of the site glass would be the correct oil level.
 
Marco Bernardini said:
David, if you want I can ask for details about your machine (and original documentation, perhaps) on the CncItalia forum.
Click to expand...

Marco, thanks and yes! There are more images at my company Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=250671911796953&id=236924019838409. There's a photo there of the motor data plate, which is the only thing that has a serial number on the whole machine, except for the table, and I'll post a pic of that when I get to my workshop later today. Strangely, there is a "3" stamped into every part on the machine, though.
 
The 3 is probably to keep the married parts together, when they are scraped and there is more than one machine in the proximity, they will mark them so no one mixes them together. Tim
 
Thanks to Jim Dawson and his pressure washer and solvent tank, this milling machine will be up and running as early as next week!

But, another question!

The currently installed B60 belts were made in Italy by Pirelli, so I can only imagine they must be the originals! They are mismatched in length, and probably need to be replaced. I have been doing some reading about belts, and it looks like in B60 there are few options, however I wonder if BX60 would fit the same pulleys. Does anyone here have any experience with toothed belts? If it were compatible, what are the advantages of toothed belts? If it's not compatible, why not? Curious!
 
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