Threading A 10/22 Barrel

mzvarner

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So I am making some upgrades to my mini lathe. I want to try and thread my 10/22 barrel, after I practice a bit more. I know I need to align the barrel in the chuck by referencing the bore with an indicator. What is that piece called and is there a good place to get them (grizzly, PTG, other?)Any other hints or tips?

Thanks!
 
will it fit through the lathe bore..is it tapered.
 
You will need yo indicate off of a ground bore rod. They are available from grizzly.
There are several you-tube videos on indicating, reaming, and threading.
Theres also some good threads here on the forum too.

Sent from somewhere in East Texas Jake Parker
 
I have the lathe torn down at the moment waiting for new parts ( tapered bearings, new spindle, bed extension kit, metal gears) then I'll put it all back together. From what I have read the barrel "should" fit but I need to check (before ordering tooling) just wanted to get some questions answered first.
 
So I am making some upgrades to my mini lathe. I want to try and thread my 10/22 barrel, after I practice a bit more. I know I need to align the barrel in the chuck by referencing the bore with an indicator. What is that piece called and is there a good place to get them (grizzly, PTG, other?)Any other hints or tips?

Thanks!
If you just want to put on a muzzle brake or flash hider for appearance, you can probably just indicate off a gage pin of the right size. The longer indicator rods are for assuring concentricity if you plan to use a suppressor.

When I threaded my .308 and AR barrels, I turned my own range rods from brass. They are a snug fit in the bore with a larger, zero runnout extension about four inches long to indicate on. Works great and a lot less money than paying $75 or so for a range rod you might use twice.
 
You should indicate it using a range rod and dial test indicator in two places. One at the cartridge neck with the neck location positioned in the 4 jaw and a ring or other spacer to keep the full jaw from touching the barrel. Second at the breach. Adjust the first using the 4 jaw, adjust the second using a spider on the left or back end of your spindle. You can use a piece of thick wire for the ring, I prefer to use small strips of aluminum between the jaws and barrel so the muzzle end can move freely in the spindle bore. You can use aluminum strips between the spider screws and barrel if it wont be turned or finished to avoid marking it.
 
All of the above. I use PTG range rods for indicating barrels. If you thread the original barrel you have to cut the tenon off and then also cut a new chamber? ($$ reamer)
Then you have to thread the receiver using a spider or mandrel.
How are you with setting headspace?
 
For the muzzle end or unchambered blank I use pin gauges. A good set can be had on ebay pretty reasonable.
 
All of the above. I use PTG range rods for indicating barrels. If you thread the original barrel you have to cut the tenon off and then also cut a new chamber? ($$ reamer)
Then you have to thread the receiver using a spider or mandrel.
How are you with setting headspace?

Can you explain why I would have to rechamber? I was just thinking of getting one of the green mountain bull barrels from cabelas, threading it, then installing to the chamber. The original "pencil barrel" is pretty thin at the muzzle, so I assumed I would not have enough meat to thread.
 
Can you explain why I would have to rechamber? I was just thinking of getting one of the green mountain bull barrels from cabelas, threading it, then installing to the chamber. The original "pencil barrel" is pretty thin at the muzzle, so I assumed I would not have enough meat to thread.

Oops, I thought that you wanted to thread the chamber end. Forget everything I wrote. Please excuse me.
If the new barrel is already chambered then threading the muzzle only requires a rod or gauge pin as already mentioned.
 
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