Tig Welding - Scratch Start tips -- Do you really scratch the surface?

Duke

Duke

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Hi everyone!

I decided last week to try my hand at Tig welding, and I need some help with the scratch start.

My Setup:

160 Amp Inverter Stick Welder, Big Argon Tank, 200 Amp Tig torch with valve : I cut off the flat connector and put on a dinse one. DCEN.

Amps - 60 to 90 for testing my scratch technique.
Tig Cup: No.6
Gas Flow: 10 to 15 cfh
Tungsten - 3/32 red
Tungsten Grind - sharp tip
Stickout - Length = cup internal diameter


I am struggling with the scratch start - Scratch gives me the idea of striking a match.... Kind of.

Starting out : If I touch/scratch the electrode to the workpiece it sticks 8 out of 10 times. :mad:


I then did the following:

Sat and tried a couple of hand positions, as well as draping the cable in different ways. Finally settled on one that is very comfortable. (I am practicing the scratch starting with only my right hand - as I need my left free for the rod.)

I also put a light slightly behind the workpiece to get a better view of the electrode tip as it approaches the workpiece.

Starting - I wiggle the electrode tip very slightly - maybe a sixteenth or two while bringing it progressively closer to the work. This takes anything from 3 to 6 seconds. All the while I am checking the distance between the shadow of the electrode and the workpiece. When the arc does start I am a LOT closer than 1/16 of an inch. Maybe a 10th or a 20th of 1/16 inch.

With this method I can do 10 to 15 arc starts without sticking once.... :)

Sometimes it makes a short "fweep" whistling noise when the arc starts.


Now my question is the following:

How do you guys scratch start? I simply cannot do a scratch motion (arc/sweep/whatever) without sticking the electrode.....
 
not saying this is right, just what I do.

Lay side of cone on part. Rotate tip towards part. When arc starts, rotate away and then pull up.
 
Karl_T said:
not saying this is right, just what I do.

Lay side of cone on part. Rotate tip towards part. When arc starts, rotate away and then pull up.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! This gives me something else to try. I can already imagine that the leverage gives you a lot of control over touching the tip....
 
some of the new technology welders allow you to touch the workpiece with the tungsten, then raise the torch before the arc starts.
the tungsten has minimal voltage when touching, full voltage and amps are available after the mainboard switches to a full active state.
it was a little different to get used to, but the idea is very nice
 
I think I've heard people keeping a scrap piece of copper on the work piece to strike the arc on. Once the arc is struck, move it over to where you need to weld.

For what it's worth, I don't have any experience but tig welding is another thing I'm really interested in but haven't had the money to get into yet. I'm interested in hearing what others have to say.
 
I’m in the same place as @DangerZone.
I’m on the verge of springing for a TIG but I’m trying to justify AC/DC so that aluminium is an option.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would highly recommend a ac/dc unit, high frequency, and buying something reputable. I have a dynasty 200 which has worked flawlessly for me. Look at minimum arc amps to not just maximum. Some machines don’t do good at low setting and doing thin materials will blow through right at initial arc. Add in a water cooler it will make welding more pleasurable for you and the tungstens.
 
Before I had an HF unit, or the current, much more capable welder, I used a piece of carbon set beside the starting point. The tungsten could easily start an arc on the carbon without sticking or contamination. The piece of carbon was a slice off the centre core of an old zinc battery.
 
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