"Titan 60" engine build

magu

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Jun 6, 2014
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Hi All!

I bought a set of plans and a kit containing the raw materials and a few castings to build a small "cox" style engine like those used on model airplanes back before brushless took over the market. I briefly began to machine it, but with no real planning and sort of "shooting from the hip" about two years ago. Fortunately, I didn't ruin any of the castings, although I got dykem on a bunch of surfaces that will remain as cast and which I did not want to sand or pain as I like the look of them. Anyway.... one night the wife said "I think I'm pregnant" and that was the end of that.

Last night I finally drug the box of small paperweights out and started messing with it again. This time with a toddler sitting on my workbench trying to touch everything I looked at. That's something I never planned for, but sometimes we don't make the best plans I guess..... (that's a bit deep of a statement but is mainly there to account for the many pictures which contain the odd shoe, small hand, or drool).

I got so far as boring out the journal for the main bearing (a yet to be machined bronze bushing), facing off the back of the engine where the mounting plate will attach, and beginning to bore out the crankshaft cavity. By the time I started that third step my left arm felt like it was going to fall off. My son had grown bored of playing with my drill and turning the feed handles on the mill, and had decided that the only way progress would continue is if I held him so he could watch while I worked.

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Cool, looks like a fun project.
 
Thanks Randy; I'll be happy, and a lot less nervous when I'm done with the main body. This is the only piece that can't be replaced if I stuff it.
 
Neat project! I used to fly wood planes with the Cox 049! Thought I was really cool when I got the Tee Dee 051!
 
The Dykem, Soak it in brake cleaner, may take it out. Another option is beryman b12 chemtool, Both seam to remove a lot of it. I use them to clean it off all kinds of stuff I get it on.

Nice project.
 
The Dykem, Soak it in brake cleaner, may take it out. Another option is beryman b12 chemtool, Both seam to remove a lot of it. I use them to clean it off all kinds of stuff I get it on.

Nice project.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. If I can't get it off, I might try light media blasting or painting it silver
 
The Dykem, Soak it in brake cleaner, may take it out. Another option is beryman b12 chemtool, Both seam to remove a lot of it. I use them to clean it off all kinds of stuff I get it on.

Nice project.

I find acetone works quite well also.
 
No Pictures, but I got a little bit done last night. I opened up the crank case ~150 thou for most of its depth. Then my son decided he wanted cheese, so we went back in the house because I am the subject of a small iron fisted tyrant with a fondness for dairy products.

I'm pretty much stuck waiting for my order from shars so I will have a dial indicator to watch my depth with. It was supposed to ship Monday, Wednesday I emailed them and they assured me it would ship that day, nothing yet. I don't know that I will be ordering from them again. They sell the same crap import tools as a million ebay vendors, if they don't have their act together, I don't see the point in giving them my business over any foreign importer with marginally better prices.
 
Also, thanks Randy, I will probably try the acetone first because there is some in the house I can steal. If that doesn't work I'll try brake cleaner or B12, which I would have to buy.
 
A couple days ago I finally got my order from Shars and finished the crank case area. I accidentally ran the boring bar in too deep a coupe times, so I just increased the overall depth by ~0.010", and I will make up for it when I sleeve the crank journal.

The pictures came out pretty crappy, but it looks better in person. (Still not perfect though...)

Also shown is the back plate which I turned down from the raw casting way back when I first started this thing. It will need re-visited, but I had it out so I could check the diameter as I closed in.

Next I will need to deck the top of the cylinder and bore it to size so I can sleeve it as well. I'm not quite sure how I am going to locate the CL of the crank axis yet, but I have a thought that I think will work...


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