Total Newb, Rushing Down Another Rabbit Hole!

C-Bag

Ned Ludd's bro
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Mike you are having so much fun.





You are absolutely right about this. I've been interested in 3D printing from before I had an interest in machining. In fact I was debating a 3D printer vs the Sherline lathe I eventually bought (3D printers cost a lot more and could do a lot less back then) so I've been following them for at least 10 years.

I joined a FB 3D printer group, and when people ask about which printer to buy you can almost substitute lathe / mill and the brand names and they would be about the same, well except for the old USA iron bit, being much younger technology that is rapidly advancing there isn't much if any push to go with old machines.

There are lots of machines out there but the two that come to the top as far as recommendations are the Ender 3 (cheap, but works) and Prusa 3 (not so cheap, but comes with all the cool mods so you don't need to add them yourself). I get the impression the Ender 3 is the 7x14 mini-lathe of the 3D printers (except for size, the Ender is comparable to many others in that regard).

With the Ender 3 available for less than $200 it does seem to be a pretty painless choice. Don't feel bad though, because like I said above I've been interested for a long time and still suffering from massive analysis paralysis. Ender or Prusa, PLA or resin oh my. :)

BTW I had made a decision and was all set to get the Prusa i3 for my birthday (November) when you posted that damn CL ad, and my birthday present turned into 800lbs of cast iron milling machine instead. It is ok though, they will make more 3D printers, so maybe I'll get an Ender 3 for Christmas. Plus 3D printers are evolving so quickly that delays result in getting a machine that is cheaper, better or both. I'm also really digging the old mill.
I LOVE that term analysis paralysis, that so describes what happens to me. I rarely spend less than a year researching into something before I take the leap. For the so many decades it was because I had no $$. But then it became a permanent habit when the net came along because it used to be so hard to find info. Now it's the opposite. There is almost too much info liberally sprinkled with diverse opinions. But like with your mill it almost always pays off because a deal always comes along. So far my need for specialized plastic parts hasn't gotten to critical mass so I've not gotten beyond the curious point. It is really fun to watch it evolve.
 

MikeWi

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The price on the Ender3 was what finally made me get one. Well, that and the need to make some parts. I've easily spent more on upgrades than I did on the original printer, but it's been a fun process that I don't regret one bit.
 

C-Bag

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I love following vicariously people's passion for something that interests me but I've not gotten the bug yet. I read a lot of sci-fi and 3D printing has become the solution to so many future scenarios. And like with the thing Jim Dawson posted the other day it is the next thing because you can do what would be impossible otherwise.

My reasons that the bug hasn't hit yet is it is still evolving so fast and not only are the prices coming down the whole thing is more and more simplified which for me is going to have to be more intuitive less time consuming. I don't do CAD. Also I don't do much with plastic. But I did do one of my first projects the other day. But I was able to do it with my lathe and mill. Once I run into something I absolutely need and can't do with my present equipment the I will not be able to shake the bug I know.

I've been needing a way to vac the huge load of chips that come off my radius cutter that forms my UHMW forms I make for metal pressure forming. The usual vac nozzle close the part was way better than no vac. It was a 40% reduction from no vac, but still chips all over the shop. I decided to use a 2" PVC elbow, hole saw a 1 3/4" hole through it and turn down a 2" solid piece of PVC rod and bore it to fit on my die grinder and epoxy elbow and PVC piece together. Works beautifully with just maybe 2% the mess now.
 

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C-Bag

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Can you please do a video (or even still shots) of that in action?
Thanks,
-brino
I'm in the middle of a different project right now, but I'd be glad to try. I only have an iPad for vid and not sure about posting vids. Have any pointers Brino? Or anybody?
 

brino

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Have any pointers Brino? Or anybody?
Sorry, not me.....I shun apple products.
-brino

PS: I suppose we should move this discussion and your video to a new thread and give 'Doc back his thread dedicated to 3-D printing.....
 

Ulma Doctor

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Here are some counterfeit parts i reverse engineered from manufactured parts :grin:

on the left the factory part, on the right my prototype copy
IMG_3754.jpg


on the left, the factory part, on the right my copy

IMG_3755.jpg
IMG_3756.jpg


for more of what i'm up to,
here is a link to my tinkercad page
 
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Tozguy

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Brino, I looked through the links you provided above and used up my quota of 'likes' for this month.
 

helmbelly

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God the stair stepping looks like you recorded a CRT tv screen of a 1990 era Super Mario Bros video game with a VHS camera! Can you sand that stuff? The M8 bolts - can you actually use them in any practical sense - like for an oil drain plug? Will they deform/melt? I just dont know what 3D printing is right now - is it for bling or can I make a worm gear for my 1905 Seneca Falls Lathe ?
 

Ulma Doctor

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God the stair stepping looks like you recorded a CRT tv screen of a 1990 era Super Mario Bros video game with a VHS camera! Can you sand that stuff? The M8 bolts - can you actually use them in any practical sense - like for an oil drain plug? Will they deform/melt? I just dont know what 3D printing is right now - is it for bling or can I make a worm gear for my 1905 Seneca Falls Lathe ?
most of the prints have been at the low quality settings, the prints can be made with finer printing settings.
i'm not sure if can be sanded successfully

the m8 bolts are 80% air as they were printed.
the nuts and bolts could be used for low stress binding, but i'd reprint them in nylon or delrin if i was serious about using them.
PLA temperature constraints would not favor these bolts for oil plugs on IC engines, but there are practical applications.

if you were to make an oversized print in PLA, you could take that print, pack it in green sand and pour your favorite molten alloy - bronze, aluminum, iron, or whatever you like- and cast a real part as a lost plastic process
plus there is plenty of bling to print too! :grin:

i'm finding the 3d printer very helpful in replacement part product development for retrofitting obsolete & overly expensive factory parts for machinery i maintain and raise from the dead
 

Ulma Doctor

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Just a point of information....


i made an upgrade to the motherboard, due to sound output.
the ender3 makes a lot of electronic noise in operation.

i found an upgrade motherboard that eliminates all the noise, the V1.1.5 silent board.
the cost was $45 with freight on ebay

the installation was straightforward ,about 45 minutes in all

let me say that the printer fan is the only noise i hear.
if you want noise reduction, the silent board is the ticket! :grin:
 

vtcnc

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i'm finding the 3d printer very helpful in replacement part product development for retrofitting obsolete & overly expensive factory parts for machinery i maintain and raise from the dead
I needed a 1/2" knockout plug for my sub panel in the shop. Readily available on Thingiverse. Downloaded, sliced and printed in 15 minutes. Got to keep working in the shop, avoid going to the store and spending money on a part that doesn't fit.

IMG-5659.JPG

IMG-5660.JPG
 

Ulma Doctor

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Here is the latest success,
i designed and printed stop and start switch placards for 30mm momentary switches
and just for hoots, i designed and printed the adapters for 22mm switches

here is the placards and adapters...
IMG_3772.jpg


and how they are used!
(this is for a retrofit control box at work 30mm switches)

IMG_3771.jpg


see them here, feel free to download!



:grin:
 
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brino

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Hi Mike,

Looks good.

It would be nice if the text could be done in another colour, perhaps black, for better contrast.
The few times I have tried sharpie markers on 3D printed objects the ink "runs" along the strands.

I have been considering a dual extruder upgrade for such things.

-brino
 

Ulma Doctor

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Hi Mike,

Looks good.

It would be nice if the text could be done in another colour, perhaps black, for better contrast.
The few times I have tried sharpie markers on 3D printed objects the ink "runs" along the strands.

I have been considering a dual extruder upgrade for such things.

-brino
Thanks Brino!!

I could not agree more!
I was relying on color cue for identification, but if an operator is color blind, that would negate color cue.
I’m also very curious about dual extrusion
 

MikeWi

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You can even do this with a single extruder by pausing it when it's time to switch color and changing the filament. Only practical if it will stay one color for each "half" of the print, or you'll go crazy!
 

brino

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hmmmmm.......I wonder if you could do the lettering in negative, that is, print them as recesses on the plate.
and then print the letters standalone in another colour and insert them into the "holes".
Like a jig-saw puzzle or "inlay" on fine wood working.
Of course, dealing with the tolerances of both parts might drive you nuts....

-brino
 

middle.road

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i had a chance to see a 3d printer, a little too close.
it captured my imagination, but thrust the spear of doubt upon my thoughts.
how can i 3d print something???
i have experience with motor controls and plc industrial thingy's- but i have no experience in g-code or co-ordinate multi-axis control.
that is where the doubt came in, how can i print something if i don't know the first thing about it???
.......clipped
Motor Controls & PLCs?, and you were concerned with 3D printing and a little G-Code...?
yeah - riiiiiight. Gimme a break. :grin:
By next spring I can't even begin to imagine what you will have come up with.
I like the AXA Tool Holder holders.
So many cool things that can be knocked out for use in the shop alone, not to mention other items (as shown).
 

7milesup

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Prusa.
Multi- material capability. Prusa.
Mesh leveling out of the box. Prusa.
Awesome support. Prusa.
One of the largest and most respected 3d printer companies out there. Prusa.

Yeah, I like my Prusa. sure the prusa probably cost more but by the time you're done upgrading all of these other machines price point is most likely very similar.

As Ulma Doctor is finding out the possibilities for a 3D printer are almost endless. I printed an adapter for a dust collection hose on my belt and Disc Sander. I am into large-scale radio controlled aircraft and helicopters and the ability to make scale Parts is endless.

Also, for the folks that are looking for an extremely powerful CAD program might I suggest SolidWorks. Yes normally it is $5,000 but if you join Experimental Aircraft Association for $50 a year you can download SolidWorks for free. It is a student version but otherwise it is the same as what a company would purchase. The only difference is when you print out a drawing it says student version.
 

C-Bag

Ned Ludd's bro
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Here is the latest success,
i designed and printed stop and start switch placards for 30mm momentary switches
and just for hoots, i designed and printed the adapters for 22mm switches

here is the placards and adapters...
View attachment 306587

and how they are used!
(this is for a retrofit control box at work 30mm switches)

View attachment 306586

see them here, feel free to download!



:grin:
What, no Sharpie button! :congratulate:
 

middle.road

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I've got a Flashforge sitting on my bench that an acquaintance 'loaned' me a couple of years ago to 'get it working correctly'.
Then I started reading up about all upgrades, mods, changes, re-engineering that kinda should be done to make it usable.
Haven't ventured down the wabbit hole yet because there just doesn't seem to be the time.
 

Ulma Doctor

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IMG_3826.jpg

i got the G-Code for a couple fans
the fan on the left is nearly perfect, whereas the fan on the right looks really poor
the same machine printed both fans
 

C-Bag

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So you got some bad code for the one on the right? Is there any way to test or tweak the code?
 

ub27Rocks

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I only use code that I generate/slice myself. If you can get the stl file then do your own slicing. There is almost no way to know what settings or machine that gcode was for. CHEP on YouTube just posted an update on Cura 4.4 settings for the Ender 3. Love my machine..
The only update I did is the Bullseye fan shroud,, nothing else needed. I level once every 8-10 print so the bl touch isn't worth it Imo.
 
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7milesup

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Very hard to tell what exactly went wrong there but...
On the fan on the right, it looks like the print temp may have been too low. Did you compare the temps, travel speeds and support system between the two? What type of material?
I have found that many times the "suggested" print temps or speed for example in Cura or other slicing software do not work well. I routinely bump temps up, including bed temp. If you watch the print closely from the beginning, you can see early on (usually) whether the settings are going to work.
 
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