Total Newb, Rushing Down Another Rabbit Hole!

Very timely thread as I've been of the same mindset as several others in this thread i.e. I'll get one once the technology matures a bit. I've been eyeing the Ender or Ender Pro myself. I like the CR10S for the extra size but it looks like it's half the speed of the Ender but again I know nothing about 3D printers...yet.
i was told not to spend the extra money on the ender 3 pro, so i didn't.
it has done almost everything i have asked, until i started to modify the speed too greatly- it is unforgiving in that sense
it likes to run at about 50mm/second but can go slightly higher
the price is almost cheap and it doesn't take long to make some pretty cool stuff.
i'll post pictures of stuff soon
 
I recently purchased a Creality CR-10S. (Like I don't already have too many hobbies...) I printed a couple of canned objects to get started. I then started playing around with Tinkercad and have actually created a few useful objects (and a few failures). I downloaded a new version of Cura (4.2.1, there is already a newer one). One useful object I created was an attachment that screws on the end of a boat hook that holds the working end of a cheapo ebay borescope. I created this to inspect the prop on my sailboat without having to go over the side in the cold Maine water. It works great. I could have made this in metal but I didn't have a tap for the weird broomstick thread. I found pre-designed socket for that thread on Thingiverse and combined that with a custom part to hold the borescope end using Tinkercad.

I have also created some stamps for pottery work. You can take a 2D jpg or png file and bring it directly into Cura. You can add height to it and add a base to make a stamp. This would also be useful for making tags or name plates. I'm planning to make one to replace a missing tag on my Atlas Mill stand.

So far I have only used PLA but I would like to try some more weather and sunlight resistant materials which will probably require modifications and an enclosure for the machine.
 
@C-Bag , don't be sacred
there is so much 3d stuff that someone else has done the real work on.
you are basically moving files from one program to another
the important program is the slicer, it generates the g-code.
the slicer program comes with the printer !!!! :grin:
there are some basic 3d objects that are also included on the little memory card(SD Card)
you can simply load the cat object file, for example.
the cat would appear in the slicer engine where you can set the size as well as control printing options
or you can print the scale and size as the original is suggested.
there is a site called tinkercad, it is literally the simplest cad program i have used- DON'T BE SCARED
you can take tanything you create from tinkercad and send it to the slicer, the slicer can make size and dimensional changes and create the gcode.
you send the gcode to the SD card and insert the SD card into the 3d printer
after a warm-up sequence, the printer goes to work
you can watch it or go do other things, periodically checking in on progress.
sometimes detailed prints can hours, if not days, for very large objects

come my friend, join me down here in the rabbit hole :grin big:
Come on in the rabbit hole is fine LOL!
 
I saw a video from CHEP (didn't know who he was, but seems well respected?) comparing the CR-10 mini with the Ender and Ender pro. Basically he likes the CR-10 better. However, a while ago when I compared the specs the Enders seemed almost twice as fast (at least how fast the steppers can go and the pro had a 24v power supply making it heat the bed up quicker). Anyway, so at this time I'm leaning towards the CR-10 based on CHEP's video. However, I'm holding tight on the purchase until I finish up a couple of other projects I started. I know if I bought one those other projects will get thrown on the back burner. May be the CR-10 will be a xmas present to myself.
 
I have watched a bunch of CHEP’s videos.
He has a lot of info. I’d recommend his videos to anyone who has interest in 3d printers
 
This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing.

I'll repeat I'm looking fwd to seeing what you use this for Doc and how it applies to what I do. I'm also in the same boat I see everybody else in, too many standing projects and having to triage immediate need vs amount of time it takes learn to use vs amount of $$$. Sorry to sound so skeptical of your new love but one of the reasons I was forced to get a lathe and mill was what I wanted and needed I couldn't buy off the shelf and it just seems to compound. It would be interesting to see like CluelessNewB did where you could come up with something where there was existing bits and pieces you could mash together to make what I want. I'm also leery of plastic like PLA as I'd want something more structural. So I'll be paying close attention to where your wabbit hole leads you to.
 
This points out a fundamental doubt about 3D printers is everybody has their viewpoint and machine. I ran headlong into this wall when I decided I truly needed a lathe and mill. For every single person who liked and used a particular machine there were lots of detractors and not being versed in any of it finally just had the raw economics make the decision. The best deal I could find on CL for the size I envisioned work I thought I'd be doing.

I'll repeat I'm looking fwd to seeing what you use this for Doc and how it applies to what I do. I'm also in the same boat I see everybody else in, too many standing projects and having to triage immediate need vs amount of time it takes learn to use vs amount of $$$. Sorry to sound so skeptical of your new love but one of the reasons I was forced to get a lathe and mill was what I wanted and needed I couldn't buy off the shelf and it just seems to compound. It would be interesting to see like CluelessNewB did where you could come up with something where there was existing bits and pieces you could mash together to make what I want. I'm also leery of plastic like PLA as I'd want something more structural. So I'll be paying close attention to where your wabbit hole leads you to.
Fair enough, all are valid reasons to sit on the fence, for now...:devilish:
we'll be waiting :grin:
 
here is a couple pictures of my most intensive print yet.
a 3d printed ratchet!!!!!
this design was made and printed on the international space station
it is rated for 3 inch pounds and only appears to tighten fasteners
the ratchet was printed in one continuous session.
all the moving parts were printed inside non moving parts!!!
it has a 3/8" square drive and is just about 5" long

IMG_3701.jpg


IMG_3702.jpg


i think this printer is amazing!
 
Cute ratchet!

I bought a 3D printer a couple years ago to make one part type I needed (in modest quantity) - a variety of spacers with two different radii and internal curved cable tie slots. Seems like I make a couple designs a week for something or other now. It has far exceeded my expectations for return on investment. It is really handy for prototyping too. I use the free OpenSCAD software to design stuff with, many prefer Fusion360 or other CAD programs. It is also a gentle way to break into CNC though you really don't get into much gcode with the state of the 3D printers and slicing software.

Here's a design I did a few days ago for my ebike. It holds a pair of displays and uses two cable ties to attach to the handlebars in the middle. This is the print orientation, in use it is flipped over. The cable tie slots are curved inside the plastic. Would be a challenge to mill these slots. :)

It is a great way to make temporary parts when doing a CNC conversion, both for prototyping and for bootstrapping. Plastic works fine for a lot of things, at least temporarily if not permanently. Like motor mounts. Good enough for permanent use for many other things like tool organizers, mounting brackets, covers, chip shields, electrical enclosures, handles and various holders that are under low stress.

I print mostly PLA and occasionally PETG when I need something higher temperature. I don't print ABS as it is too problematic with toxic fumes and shrinkage problems.

Which machine doesn't matter too much, choose something that fits your budget and meets your feature set and make sure it has good support from somewhere. If you care about open source some companies follow it and some just don't, so do some research there to guide your choice.

I've been planning to get and CNC a mill for years, however my 3D printers are used much more than the CNC mill will be. :)


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Congrats UD! Yes I agree with everything you say here. There is nothing to be afraid of with these. As far as the machine goes, the most remarkable technology about this is the slicer software. Everything else I am confident that the average hobby machinist can at least familiarize himself with.

I heard through the grapevine that the power connectors on the Ender 3 are shoddy. That is one reason I went with the Pro. Also, they upgraded the power supply and rearranged some of the fan placements to solve some complaints they have. I think the only other change is the magnetic sheet which I finally tossed and use as a hobby cutting mat.
 
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