Tractor clutch

rock_breaker

rock_breaker

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Didn't have to plow much snow this past winter so started summer with the brush hog. While mounting the brush hog I noticed the clutch pedal wasn't returning full stroke due to a missing spring. The parts book shows 2 springs attached to the throw-out yoke in the clutch compartment; the problem with that is there is no inspection pan under the clutch, just cast iron frame. In checking the linkage I found some components that looked like a return spring could work there but no spring. Found an old bed spring but it was short, so the RF 31 was used to make an extension link.
In addition to this the adjustment assembly (you know, the nut with left and right hand threads) is nearly at the end of the threads. There is some life left in the clutch plate so I thought I could modify the linkage (make it longer) so I fabricated a male/female 3/4" extension using 7/16" X 14 TPI which I thought I had measured before I misplace the right hand threaded part. The missing part was found today and the metric threads are to large to start in the female part of the shop made adapter. Plan B is to cut the rod in half, make a sleeve to incorporate the extension then braze it back together. When the clutch plate is finally replaced the sleeve could be removed and the rod welded back together to return it to the correct length.
Plan C would be to start modifying the old house the shop is in so the tractor can be broken apart out of the weather--sort of.
Have a good day!
Ray
 
What make of tractor Ray?
Cheers
Martin
 
My Nortrac XT30 tractor needed a clutch adjustment from day 1. Actually, the manual states that this should be routine preventative maintenance.Looking at the manual and inspecting the tractor, I couldn't see an access plate. It turns out the the rear mount for the front end loader completely covers the access plate and had to be removed for access. This involved propping the bucket on the provided supports to relieve the weight on the rear mounts, disconnecting the loader arms, and removing the mount blocking access. I did have to make a custom 14" feeler gauge in order to do the adjustment.

The tractor has a two stage clutch with the second being for the PTO and because I didn't have an issue with the PTO clutch at the time, I didn't adjust it. Unfortunately, after readjusting the linkage, the PTO clutch wouldn't disengage. And by the tune that I realized that, the tractor was reassembled. With a modification to the linkage, I was able to find a point where the PTO clutch would barely disengage and I still had some free throw (barely) on the main clutch.

It will do until I get enough ambition to go through the process again. Fortunately, all the heavy work is done until winter. The rototiller has been parked and the riding lawnmower has taken over the tasks previously done with the brush hog so I can afford to wait for cooler, drier days.
 
The older Fords like the 2000,3000 models you can unbolt the steering box to gain access to adjust the clutch. To split its best to have on level concrete, but sheets of plywood work. Just makes it harder to push or pull apart. Definitely drive wedges between the front axle and engine to prevent the tractor from pivoting when it splits.
Cheers
Martin
 
It is a Branson 3620 with a front loader and a backhoe attachment. It is not a large tractor, 35 HP, but still a lot of work, fortunately on a concrete slab. I do not have a PTO clutch so the gears get clashed on occasion. The backhoe has be removed so the 3 point hitch can be used. The hoe attachment is readily dismounted but it's mounting framework on the tractor could be a chore.
Have a good day,
Ray
 
Hi Ray, yeah sounds pretty involved.
CheersMartin
 
Finally went with plan Y; "y" is for a yoke to go in at the upper end of the linkage. That end is pin connected to the pedal assembly so a 3/4" X 3/4" X 1.75" piece of metal got modified. The pin holes are 1.25"apart so now the clutch free-play is approximately 2" with no noticeable problems.

This became a "use all the tools" project, the shaper was the only tool that wasn't used. A couple of detours had to be dealt with; sharpen 2 drill bits, make a bushing to mount a cutter with a 1" spindle diameter on a 0.875" spindle on the horizontal mill used to make the yoke legs longer. The only cut off tool fits the Clausing lathe so the bushing was cut to length there. The Enco mill and the Delta bandsaw did the primary shaping.

Throw in some measuring mistakes and it was a fun project.

Three things were learned; 1. The markings on the Enco lathe cross-feed dial are not accurate, from zero on the dial move the dial to the forth mark and it will cut 0.006". 2. The lead screw on the cross feed will move the cutting tool 0.125" as indicated on the dial when rotated 360`. 3. Using dial indicators to check tool movements like the big Dads down at the machine shop isn't exactly easy but I am going to learn to do it.

Have a good day
Ray
 
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2stage clutches are a trick to adjust. If you adjust the traction clutch it changes the pto clutch clearances. One is usually adjusted prior to install for ease. Have done Kubotas, new Holland’s, fords and masseys.
 
Thanks Cadillac,I don't think the parts book I have shows a two stage clutch, however, it uses the same book for 5 models. If it has to be adjusted prior to installing that may happen this winter. For Martin W., I goofed it is a Branson 3610 sorry about that. And RJ I looked in the Northern Tool catalog, their XT35 is slightly bigger than my Branson. This tractor does have a 2 speed PTO; 540 and 1000 RPM. I thought I read about clutch adjustment thoroughly but I am going to go through it again. At least now I have some free play on the pedal.
Have a good day.
Ray
 
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