trailer spindle repair

I am going to follow Tony Wells suggestion on how to make the spacer. And I dug some more through my junk bin and found a piece of "mystery" steel that will work. The length is about right but the diameter is way larger then necessary. I will be taking off a fair amount of material to get to the correct OD.

A big thank you to everyone for their suggestions.
 
I hope to finish the spacer today. When I part it off should I part it at the finished width or part it oversize and then face it down to the correct width. My concern with parting it oversize is scratching the polished OD where the grease seal rides when I face it down and then not being able to get the scratches polished out at the correct OD. Forcing me to start over again.
Interesting to me at least is that the spacer is metric. The OD is 45 mm and the ID is 30 mm. When I measure the width today I'll bet that it is metric also. The grease seals were hard to find and after a lot of searching found that there are off of an 80's Mazda B1800 to B2200 truck. My auto parts store had to order them.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 
i see no reason why you couldn't just part it off. once the hub is on no one will see that one side looks better than the other
 
I built a small trailer a while back to pull behind my UTV for firewood hauling. I was surprised at how inexpensive the complete spindle and hub assemblies were with bearings and everything. One of those things you have no idea the cost until you start researching I guess. I even found them on Amazon. That said, I'd be more likely to simply get a new one and bolt or weld it on than even mess with it unless you're just looking for a project. I guess I'm getting lazy in my old(er) age.
 
I built a small trailer a while back to pull behind my UTV for firewood hauling. I was surprised at how inexpensive the complete spindle and hub assemblies were with bearings and everything. One of those things you have no idea the cost until you start researching I guess. I even found them on Amazon. That said, I'd be more likely to simply get a new one and bolt or weld it on than even mess with it unless you're just looking for a project. I guess I'm getting lazy in my old(er) age.

they hand make 6-32 nuts here - just saying:)
 
they hand make 6-32 nuts here - just saying:)
Lol.. yep, the cost of fixing it 10 hrs work... but the ability to say "I made it and fixed it myself for nothing"... priceless. I suppose it's the main reason why we're here and have mills, lathes and tools to start with!
 
I looked into buying a replacement axle and nothing I found would fit. And a new axle would have required new wheels and probably tires too. Plus more time to modify the trailer to make the new axle fit. Easier to just make the spacer. Also I like to fix things and would rather fix something than throw it away and buy new.
 
One of the problems that I have had when boring a hole is that my holes tend to come out larger in diameter than what I thought they should be. I use a Starrett telescoping gauge to get the inside diameter and then measure this with a caliper. I have both digital and veneer calipers that I use. Boring the ID on this spacer was a slow process and I had lots of time to think about this. My conclusion as to the source of the problem lies in the telescoping gauge. The ends of the gauge are basically flat and contact the ID on their edges. Not in the center and there is always a small gap between the center of the gauge and the inside of the hole. The smaller the hole the larger the gap. I think that the ends of the gauge should be a round half circle of the diameter of the gauge and not flat. If the ends were round you would get a true measure of the ID of the hole. Or is there a way to compensate for this with resorting to trigonometry?

Do they make telescoping gauges with round ends? I have not seen any. Or could I just round off the ends of the gauges that I already have? I don't think that there is a enough material to do this.
 
The telescoping gages can be an issue, but usually the problem is with the less than rigid boring setup. If you make a cut, measure it, and then follow it with another cut at the same setting, measure again, make yet another cut at the same setting, and measure again, you will find that the hole keeps getting bigger. They are called "spring cuts" for good reason. The springier the setup, the worse it gets. When you get near your final size, use multiple passes before changing the setting, and check after each pass. Another issue is having a good, sharp cutting tool set up with the proper geometry to make a keen cut, which will have less springing action. For smaller holes, gage pins are my favorite way of checking progress.

I have never seen a snap gage with flat ends. That would be worthless inside a hole. Do not grind them, replace them! Snap gages have their own idiosyncrasies, and a learning curve for getting consistent results. There are plenty of tutorials on the web of how to use them properly, and well worth studying. Practice with a known accurate sized hole until you can consistently measure within a tenth or two. That is not easy, so be proud when you achieve it.
 
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