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Transfer Punch

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Joncooey

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Any one have advice on how to resharpen/repoint/reharden these cheap Chinese transfer punches?
 

mmcmdl

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Surface grinder and a whirley jig . Put that whirley jig ( spin indexer or whatever you may call it ) perpendicular to your wheel , dress appropriate angle on your wheel with a norbide stick , then throw those Chinese punches in the scrap pile and make something cool . Then buy a good set of transfer punches . :)
 

mikey

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Then buy a good set of transfer punches . :)
If you take Dave's advice, Spellman makes good punches.

If you want to try and sharpen those Chinese ones, chuck it in a lathe and put a grinding stone to it. There is no specific angle required for that; just a sharp point. The problem with these tools is that they can be hard, soft or just right for the job and there is no way to tell until you whack on it. And this can be within the same set of punches. I suppose we can't be fussy about a set of punches that cost so little but, well, I long ago decided that Spellman punches is a better way to go.
 

Norseman C.B.

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If yer a cheap A$$ like me you can chuck them up and re point them
on the lathe, then you bust out a torch or the forge, heat the working end to critical temp.
quench in warm canola oil and then stick em in the shop toaster oven at 375 deg. fer an hour or two then quench in water.
If the steel is descent they will be good fer a long time, if steel is sub standard not so long a time,
rinse and repeat as needed.......................My $.02 :big grin:
 

mikey

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If yer a cheap A$$ like me you can chuck them up and re point them
on the lathe, then you bust out a torch or the forge, heat the working end to critical temp.
quench in warm canola oil and then stick em in the shop toaster oven at 375 deg. fer an hour or two then quench in water.
If the steel is descent they will be good fer a long time, if steel is sub standard not so long a time,
rinse and repeat as needed.......................My $.02 :big grin:
Just gotta' hope the steel doesn't curl like a weiner!
 

Tozguy

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On the question of how to sharpen a punch (regardless of quality), this is one way to do it;
The punch is first chucked up in a small drill chuck which is then chucked up in a four jaw. After zeroing the punch for runout it is ground using a tool post grinder.

IMG_1134.JPG
 

P. Waller

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Generally speaking one may buy a set of 28 transfer punches for $10.99 including a molded plastic stand.
This makes sharpening existing tools rather expensive.
If each of the the 28 tools is used only once it is just $0.40 per use, I suspect that a home user can afford this (-:
 

P. Waller

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I guess the question is: how much is our time worth, also we are too much of a throwaway society.
Initial cost is a large factor.
If you were to produce a line of Bemmy's 28 piece set of Transfer Punches that would perform for 100 strikes for $125.99.
28 tools X 100 uses per tool is 2800 strikes or $.04.00 per strike, how many home users will cough up $125.00 up front?
 

benmychree

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Initial cost is a large factor.
If you were to produce a line of Bemmy's 28 piece set of Transfer Punches that would perform for 100 strikes for $125.99.
28 tools X 100 uses per tool is 2800 strikes or $.04.00 per strike, how many home users will cough up $125.00 up front?
Not me, for one, when I retired, I bought import sets for fractions, letters and numbers; most will likely never get used; I have had to repoint a couple of them, the work of a few minutes at most.
 

PT Doc

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I like my Spellman set that I got from Enco years ago. Good quality for a fair price. You can clearly see that about half of the punch is hardened. These have a teet looking tip. How do you repoint these?
 

benmychree

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I just use a hard grade of carbide tool and recut the point. Perhaps a ceramic insert would work as well.
 

rwm

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See my comments here:


I am curious to see what you get if you order the Spellman punches. Please let us know.
Robert
 

arvidj

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Like others I bought import sets for metric, fractions, letters and numbers plus the type that screw in threaded holes. Thanks Enco!! I really miss you.

Anyway, knowing that they were import quality I have treated them as Transfer Markers rather than Transfer Punches. I tap them just hard enough to make a usable mark ... possibly on a blued surface ... then proceed with a hardened punch to make the real 'drill here' divot. Yes, an extra step but for this hobbyist on a budget it has served me well.

Just food for thought.
 
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