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Transmission/Engine Tear Down Bench Question

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As I sit here eating my lunch, I'm hoping someone will throw me a nugget of wisdom.
The typical commercial tear down bench is too small. The table is angled slightly back and to the side so oil can drain into a receptacle through a hole in the back corner of the table.
This table is 8 feet long and 30" deep.
My question, what angle should I use?
I was thinking one inch elevation on the front and left side, the fluids will drain back and to the right.
I plan on making the top an adjustable part-not welded to the base. The sides and back will have a 2" welded lip.
This project is in process, please no rock throwing :)
Thanks.
What an I having for lunch? blueberries, strawberries, apple, Greek yogurt and granola, my usual.

tranny bench.JPG

trans bench.JPG

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Comments

As it is adjustable I would adjust it to the minimum fall that prevents the oil from pooling on the table.

When I tore my engine down I did it on an engine stand with a drip tray underneath. Made it easy to rotate the engine as the engine weighs about 300kg.

I like your lunch BTW...........
 
I used 3’x7’ metal commercial fire rated door slabs as my work bench tops and rebuilt an engine on one. I also used an engine stand.
 
Looks pretty nice and sturdy. As for drainage why not use the space of the top framing as the pan. Take the piece you have on top cut it so it fits within the top of table framing and pitch it to where you would like then weld a 2” flange on bottom so you can put a ball valve for draining. Then take some heavy gauge perforated steel for your table top surface. Maybe half perforated half solid so you can work over the solid so no worries of bolts falling in the pan. Are their plans for mounts for engineand trans or just laying on table. Putting a swivel hoist beam in a corner would be nice for lifting. And pull out flat shelves from underneath for tools would be sweet.
 
My opinion is since you are already going for an adjustable top why not adapt 4 tie rod ends with adjustment sleeves to each corner so you can fine tune your tilt angles on the fly and then maybe drill a few holes into stock at different intervals that slip into the leg base and use quick release hitch pins to fast adjust height on each end? Im not sure how much adjustment you will actually need over the tables lifetime however my suggestions would make it very adaptable without compromising strength!
 
I helped a guy build a transmission table years ago. The top was 3/16" thick, and for a drain, we fired up the torch and cut a 2" hole in the center. The heat of the torch warped the top just enough to give it a dip right at the drain hole. Put in a shower drain and set a bucket underneath.
 
A guy at work has one, genuine Strap-On brand. Table has a very slight fall to the rear, and a trough there with very slight fall to the right.
I will get some pics and post up on Monday, if I am not there tomorrow on "Snow Shift" , that is;)
 
Good sturdy bench!

One transmission I got intimate with was a Peugot manual from a 1988 Jeep Cherokee.
I replaced a synchro damaged when the hydraulic clutch let go....again.
It was made of three sections bolted together (front and back sections clam-shelled, if I recall correctly)
I DO remember needing a hole thru the bench for the input shaft to pass so I could stand it on end for disassembly.
I suppose such a hole could be filled when not required, with some type of rubber plug.
Just a thought.....

-brino
 
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