Trindle super industrial welder

For aluminum, you would use those flux covered rods. They have nasty fumes and sticky flux. They also are expensive, and you have to have a good touch and some preheat to get them to fuse in well. I have a bunch, but have never tried them out, since they require DC. My friend tried them, and he got good results the first time, but he is already good at stick welding steel.
 
Shootymacshootface said:
So, I have poking around on the internet, and have discovered that a dc conversion can easily be done by using a bridge rectifier. I just have to make sure that it is rated for my welders output amperage.
Has anyone done one of these conversions? And, how does it work? I know that it would improve welding in general, but what of aluminum?
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Yes, it's possible to stick weld aluminum, but it's not a very precise, controlled process. After going to the trouble and expense to convert the machine to DC you're still going to get pretty poor results in most cases. Aluminum presents some unique challenges when you're trying to weld it, and it's hugely different from steel or stainless.
 
I actually have a need to weld some aluminum. I let a pump freeze and part of it broke, so I started my DC conversion. Fortunately it's pretty simple. Thats a 200amp rectifier mounted on a big heat sink that I had.
Here's what I got done so far.
I stopped at an Airgas welding store for some aluminum rods and didn't see any so I asked. The guy said that they haven't been able to get any for months. I told him that Tractor Supply has a bunch of Hobart aluminum rod in 3/32 and 1/8 inch. He said that if I was you I would go and get some. Thats good stuff I guess. I bought both sizes and the recommended amperage for both sizes is right in my Trindles range. I hope I welds nice. I hear that it can be a crap shoot.
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The top of the bridge rectifier was not at all strong enough for use of the push in connectors. Just a little tug on a cable, and the lugs would have broken right off. It took me a minute, but now they are rock solid.
Tomorrow we weld aluminum!
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Edit.
Also, if you notice in the first few pictures how wide the lugs were. They were to fill in the entire square mounting area. When I placed them on the rectifier I noticed that they were about .1 apart. Then I said, oh "arc welder". I took .2 off the inside of each lug. It certainly would have been special when I plugged it in.
 
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I tried to weld some aluminum scraps together tonight. It didn't go very well. It took me forever to find my stainless steel wire brush. My torch ran out of propane while I was preheating the parts. I could only get the temp up to about 200F. The rod did nothing but stick to the parts that I was trying to weld. Frustrating indeed, but towards the end I was starting to see more of an arc and the rod being consumed. So, what I think that I learned is that preheating is mandatory for this to work. I'll get a bottle of mapp gas and do a proper preheat and try again.
 
Shootymacshootface said:
I tried to weld some aluminum scraps together tonight. It didn't go very well. It took me forever to find my stainless steel wire brush. My torch ran out of propane while I was preheating the parts. I could only get the temp up to about 200F. The rod did nothing but stick to the parts that I was trying to weld. Frustrating indeed, but towards the end I was starting to see more of an arc and the rod being consumed. So, what I think that I learned is that preheating is mandatory for this to work. I'll get a bottle of mapp gas and do a proper preheat and try again.
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For non-critical stuff I don't bother with the stainless wire brush...if it looks pretty clean a solid wipe with acetone is more than good enough.

Many people trim a bit of flux off the tip of aluminum stick rods to help getting them started without sticking....even just tapping them on the bench to knock off a touch will help.

Even the guys who have a lot of experience with this method describe it as challenging and only use it when absolutely necessary.
 
G-ManBart said:
For non-critical stuff I don't bother with the stainless wire brush...if it looks pretty clean a solid wipe with acetone is more than good enough.

Many people trim a bit of flux off the tip of aluminum stick rods to help getting them started without sticking....even just tapping them on the bench to knock off a touch will help.

Even the guys who have a lot of experience with this method describe it as challenging and only use it when absolutely necessary.
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Thank you for the great tips!
 
You could probably buy a DC welder for what it would cost to convert it. Miller thunderbolt buzz box or the like should be around for cheap, as most have moved on to MIG. For aluminum, just get a spool gun for your MIG. They have come way down in price for the Chinese versions, and you will be much happier with the results. I think the one you have, has earned a place as a historical conversation piece. Mike
Didn't see the later posts. Carry on. Mike
 
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FOMOGO said:
You could probably buy a DC welder for what it would cost to convert it. Miller thunderbolt buzz box or the like should be around for cheap, as most have moved on to MIG. For aluminum, just get a spool gun for your MIG. They have come way down in price for the Chinese versions, and you will be much happier with the results. I think the one you have, has earned a place as a historical conversation piece. Mike
Didn't see the later posts. Carry on. Mike
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I found a 200A bridge rectifier for about $20, so I have very little into this experiment. I'm trying to ovoid having to get a second gas bottle. I wish there was one gas that would work with both aluminum and steel.
 
I always thought AL was an AC process.
I modified my HF flux core with a bridge rectifier, it turned a crappy flux core welder to a much better flux core welder. I also went 200A.
For AL I have been using the hobart brazing rod, just heat to 600-700 and add the rod, its like soldering.
 
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