Turning Large Diameter, Short Length Material

Shiseiji

Avid destroyer of many materials.
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Thanks for looking. Probability covered, but I have no idea what to search by. My vocabulary is lacking.

I have a piece of 15B30 Carbon Steel with boron 3-1/2 in diameter x 1" long. I've cleaned off the scale, but am unsure how to hold this to clean up the diameter.

I have a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, and a face plate. And collets I need to make a drawbar for.

I have drilled and tapped one side 6M 1.75, but found that, at least how I tried, a shaft that size insufficient to hold in the 3 jaw. Would like to avoid a hole in the other side.

Appreciate any ideas/shared experience.

Thanks,

Ron
 
I’m really guessing, but I would find and mark center. CA glue to a piece of plate. Chuck up in 4-jaw and center up on the center mark. Use a live center in tailstock and hold pressure against slug. Then take very light cuts till cleaned up.
Heat until glue releases.
I’m sure the more experienced will come along shortly and give you a better idea.

Chuck
 
A weight for a cell phone stand. Saw one and want to make my own, The odd thread is the base of the arm from a dial indicator base. Just needs to look decent.
 
Chuck up the stock and face one side. That's the bottom. On that side, drill and tap holes that line up with the slots on your
face plate: just don't thru drill them. Bolt the stock to the face plate with some short spacers, and
you're set to face the other side and turn the OD. Since the tapped holes are on the bottom of your stand, no
one will see them.
 
Open the 3-jaw up until the tallest portion of the jaws are a little smaller than the OD of the stock. Using live center in the existing hole (M6x1.75?) push the part against the jaws, applying as much pressure as possible with the tailstock. Take light cuts.
 
I use the 4 jaw, finish as much as accessible, then flip it, very carefully indicate it in, radially and axially, and clean up the rest of it. I’ve always been able to get this “fingernail smooth”, then some Scotch-brite, working through the colors/grits, and Blue Magic makes it invisible.
 
I use the 4 jaw, finish as much as accessible, then flip it, very carefully indicate it in, radially and axially, and clean up the rest of it. I’ve always been able to get this “fingernail smooth”, then some Scotch-brite, working through the colors/grits, and Blue Magic makes it invisible.
I did something close. I put a bull nose/pipe center in the 4 jaw with the flat against the work and the hole facing out for the live center. Used a bearing against the faced work to square it up, and the live center to center the work in the 4 jaw. Darn thing rattled and the tool dug in and skipped.
 
Thank you everyone for taking the time to offer suggestions. I'll give each of them a go ending with bolting it to the face plate as probably the most sure fire method.

Will report back later.

Ron
 
I've had luck with center drilling the center on the drill press, then placing two sided heavy duty tape on the faces of the 4jaw (note on the face of the jaw itself) adjusting so that the jaws are smaller than the desired diameter. Pinching the stock between a live center and the jaw faces. And frequently monitoring to ensure nothing is getting loose.

Daryl
MN
 
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