Two Piece Mill Vise

devils4ever said:
What size arbor press would work for this? 2 ton? I think I'll have to get one.
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Assuming .0005 - .001 interference, even a 1-ton should do the job. Getting the pin started straight is the critical part.

With arbor presses, the limitation is frequently the vertical capacity under the ram. I'm currently struggling with this issue. A C broach (1/4-3/8) is 12 in. long, which stretches the capacity of a 3-ton press.

Far be it from me to discourage you from buying tools. Instead of buying a tool to do this job, try to imagine what your future needs might be and choose accordingly.
 
Yeah, I've been looking at getting one anyways since I needed one a month ago to broach a keyway in a pulley. I made due with my large woodworking vise, but it wasn't easy. I see using this in the future, but not daily by any means.

Agreed that the vertical capacity is critical in this. I figured I needed at least 6-7" capacity for the broach. For this operation, I would need less.

All the 1 ton arbor presses I've looked at don't have the vertical capacity. That's why I'm looking at 1-1/2 and 2 ton models.

I can't find good reviews on arbor presses except for Dake which are $$$. I've looked at Jet, HHIP, Palmgren, Grizzly, Baileigh, etc.
 
An arbor press for broaching and pressing in bushings is essential. After years of being on my list I found an old Jet #2 for $35. It has proven to be indispensable. When I ran out of height I remembered a trick from years ago and welded a plate foot to the bottom of some 3” pipe and set it under the table I have the press mounted to with some press plates on it. I had mounted the press with the end of it hanging off so long pieces could be pressed, so the pipe became the press anvil. I did a small weld to the the leg just in case. Not elegant but did the job. Ultimately I want to build heavy duty table for the press with stout legs that I can bolt knee type setup to. So far the arbor press only got stuck once and I have 12t hydraulic for that.
 
C-Bag said:
When I ran out of height I remembered a trick from years ago and welded a plate foot to the bottom of some 3” pipe and set it under the table I have the press mounted to with some press plates on it. I had mounted the press with the end of it hanging off so long pieces could be pressed, so the pipe became the press anvil. I did a small weld to the the leg just in case. Not elegant but did the job.
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How about a picture or two?
 
MrWhoopee said:
How about a picture or two?
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It was pretty ugly and I cut it back off when I was done. I don’t remember what I did with it but I’ll see if it’s out in the engineering pile
 
I've been looking for at least a 3 ton arbor press so it has enough travel for C broaches. New ones are expensive and the shipping is a killer. In the mean time I've trued up my old 20 ton hydraulic press so it travels straighter. Way slower to use than an arbor press but I don't do a lot of broaching either. Since it's travel isn't perfectly true I push a little ways then slack off then repeat. Press fits, pushing bearings & bending things makes the hydraulic press worth having.
 
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This thread is great looking forward to the finished product. Classic build a tool to make a tool to make a tool!


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More progress. I have everything done except the holes for the guide rods. I have to admit, I'm a little intimidated doing this last step after all the time I've put into this. So, I'm trying to determine the best way to drill these holes accurately. I want to stack them vertically and drill them at the same time to get better alignment. I trammed my mill. My vise is too shallow to put both in simultaneously. I'm thinking of doing it directly on the table. Alignment might take some time to get them directly on top of each other and aligned with the X and Y axis of the mill.

I decided to order an arbor press and went with the Interstate 2 ton model (#09511122) from MSC since it's reasonably priced and gets decent reviews. It has an 8-1/2" max work height and 1-5/8" ram. I'll have to buy or build a stand for it eventually. Shipping was a bit high.


IMG_5632.jpg
 
Okay, here's the setup I've come up with the accurately drill the two guide rods. I'm using two Kant-Twist clamps to hold the two pieces together and the vice to hold them accurately. Drill rod is 0.375" for guide rods.

My plan is:
  1. Tram mill.
  2. Spot drill both holes.
  3. Use a 1/64" undersized (23/64") drill and go halfway into the bottom piece--movable jaw. (Do I need to go up in increments or go to the full size?)
  4. Use a 1 thou undersized reamer to go through both pieces. This really only needs to be for the bottom piece, but it retains alignment.
  5. Use a 1 thou oversized reamer and only go through the top piece--fixed base.
  6. Remove and press drill rod into movable jaw.
  7. Cross fingers it works!
Does this seem correct? Or, is there a better way? Maybe, I'm overthinking this, but I want this to work after the time and material I used to get this far.


IMG_5637.jpg
 
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