Ulma Doctor, Scraping Mentor

Is that a fluorescent light mounted high on the lathe? I thought those bulbs would freeze the work image at sixty cycles, and possibly lead one to grab a spinning piece of work. I thought one always had an old timey light bulb shining on the work to prevent such visual freezing of moving parts of equipment? Don't know, but that is what I thought.


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You are right, we used to have ikea desk lamps over each of our lathes to help that. Now many LED bulbs have full wave rectifiers to somewhat smooth out light output. There are also halogen and other filament bulbs available if that is not enough.
 
Are you gents talking about the light up at the top? That is an automotive flood light. If you are talking about the 4 ft light, that is a LED at the lower wave length.20170302_003756.jpg
 
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I'm overly curious about what you have mounted at the head stock?
Paul

Paul,

That vertical piece? That is just a SS barrels drop, I was going to use it to mount the control box on. Now, I use the bore to store a short cleaning rod and a bore brush at the ens I use in conjunction with cleaning patch to swab the chamber in between running the finishing reamer.
 
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That


Paul,

That vertical piece? That is just a SS barrels drop, I was going to use it to mount the control box on. Now, I use the bore to store a short cleaning rod and a bore brush at the ens I use in conjunction with cleaning patch to swab the chamber in between running the finishing reamer.

I actually didn't see that till you pointed it out. :confused 3: I meant the thing mounted on the spindle with all the set screws in it?
 
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I actually didn't see that till you pointed it out. :confused 3: I meant the thing mounted on the spindle with all the set screws in it?

Sorry, that is my spider chuck used when chambering barrels. The 4 set screws are the actual adjusters and the 8 socket heads are used to provide additional clamping on the barrel. The 4 cup point set screws are sort of like your 4 jaws, here are a couple of picture to show you how the system is used, one showing the initial set up and how the barrel blank is clamped, the other picture after the chamber has been cut with the barrel extension screwed on. The bolt sticking closed on the Go Gauge. The 3rd picture shows a barrel set up for crowning. Notice the cup point set screws are torquing against the ball bearings while the aluminium finger clamps are the ones actually clamping on the barrel. The ball bearings allow the barrel to gimbal when using the rear spider during fine tuning of the barrel bore.
 
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my previous point , whether taken or not, was that most anything can be scraped to varying levels of precision
whether the material will hold the tolerance or not is inconsequential when you are explaining and showing scraping to someone who has never held a scraper before.
I scraped my finger (skin) the other day. But how do I check it for flatness?
 
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