- Joined
- Nov 9, 2015
- Messages
- 406
Thanks to those who have posted about their new Precision Matthews machines. After two years of looking, your information and experience has led me to purchase a PM-1440GT lathe. I am a very satisfied customer. My expectations were very high, and Matt exceeded those expectations. I encountered two minor issues during this process, and Matt was immediately available to help.
This post covers un-crating, lifting, and installing the machine. It doesn't add much new information, but I hope will help a prospective buyer in some way. There were only two surprises during the process, which I will discuss later.
My machine arrived two weeks after I paid for it. It was very thoroughly and effectively crated.
Here is the machine and accessories with the top of the crate removed. Despite the long journey from Pittsburgh to the West Coast, everything was in perfect shape, aside from two minor paint scratches on the stand which were easily touched up.
I used the "Ring" method for lifting. Here is the assembly. I tried to go as cheap as possible, while making sure it was robust enough for 1750 lbs. The parts and pieces: An oval eye nut, a one foot length of 1"-8 Grade 8 threaded rod, Grade 8 nuts, 3/8" CRS for the lower plate, u-channel for the top, and 2 pieces of 1/8" neoprene.
Here is how the lower plate was positioned under the bed for the lift. By design, it was highly unlikely to slip toward the headstock, and I cranked down pretty hard on it to keep it from slipping toward the tailstock. There is a small section of u-channel bolted it the middle to keep it from twisting.
Now for the two surprises. First, this lift was a lot easier than I though it would be, which allowed me to do it solo. And second, I positioned the lifting ring way too far toward the headstock. While I eventually got the load balanced, one would be much better off locating the lifting ring closer to the midpoint of the bed, as is shown in the manual.
Here is the machine in the engine hoist. I had to go at it broadside because I didn't have the extension to get it from the headstock end. In order to get the hoist feet under the skid, I lifted the corners of the skid 1/2" at a time, individually, with a toe jack, using cutoffs from the crate slats as leveling blocks.
To balance the load, I moved the carriage and tailstock as far toward the headstock as possible, then used the ratchet straps at the tailstock end for final leveling.
Not pretty, but it worked.
Here is the machine with the pallet removed -- ready to be lowered into place.
After final leveling, I moved on to installing the DRO. I purchased the Easson ES12-B kit which includes brackets for both axes and for the display head. The brackets required minor modification, plus I needed a number of additional fasteners to complete the job.
Here is the X. I chose to machine a slot into the aluminum mounting bar to provide access to the cross slide locking screw. I replaced the original locking screw with a square-head 8mm set screw. This allows for a fairly small 8mm wrench for tightening the screw - and the wrench is small enough to leave in place.
Here is the Y. I liked Jbolt's idea of using existing holes in the carriage rather than drilling and tapping additional ones. In my case, it sacrifices some carriage travel toward the tailstock end, which is easily changed if it becomes an issue.
And here are both axes with covers installed prior to affixing the cables.
Here is the machine - installed and ready for work.
And finally, the first chips - preparing a fresh tailstock alignment tool. The best way I can describe the feel of this machine compared to the others is to say it is like riding is somebody else's Lexus. I really look forward to getting to know the machine a lot better.
This post covers un-crating, lifting, and installing the machine. It doesn't add much new information, but I hope will help a prospective buyer in some way. There were only two surprises during the process, which I will discuss later.
My machine arrived two weeks after I paid for it. It was very thoroughly and effectively crated.
Here is the machine and accessories with the top of the crate removed. Despite the long journey from Pittsburgh to the West Coast, everything was in perfect shape, aside from two minor paint scratches on the stand which were easily touched up.
I used the "Ring" method for lifting. Here is the assembly. I tried to go as cheap as possible, while making sure it was robust enough for 1750 lbs. The parts and pieces: An oval eye nut, a one foot length of 1"-8 Grade 8 threaded rod, Grade 8 nuts, 3/8" CRS for the lower plate, u-channel for the top, and 2 pieces of 1/8" neoprene.
Here is how the lower plate was positioned under the bed for the lift. By design, it was highly unlikely to slip toward the headstock, and I cranked down pretty hard on it to keep it from slipping toward the tailstock. There is a small section of u-channel bolted it the middle to keep it from twisting.
Now for the two surprises. First, this lift was a lot easier than I though it would be, which allowed me to do it solo. And second, I positioned the lifting ring way too far toward the headstock. While I eventually got the load balanced, one would be much better off locating the lifting ring closer to the midpoint of the bed, as is shown in the manual.
Here is the machine in the engine hoist. I had to go at it broadside because I didn't have the extension to get it from the headstock end. In order to get the hoist feet under the skid, I lifted the corners of the skid 1/2" at a time, individually, with a toe jack, using cutoffs from the crate slats as leveling blocks.
To balance the load, I moved the carriage and tailstock as far toward the headstock as possible, then used the ratchet straps at the tailstock end for final leveling.
Not pretty, but it worked.
Here is the machine with the pallet removed -- ready to be lowered into place.
After final leveling, I moved on to installing the DRO. I purchased the Easson ES12-B kit which includes brackets for both axes and for the display head. The brackets required minor modification, plus I needed a number of additional fasteners to complete the job.
Here is the X. I chose to machine a slot into the aluminum mounting bar to provide access to the cross slide locking screw. I replaced the original locking screw with a square-head 8mm set screw. This allows for a fairly small 8mm wrench for tightening the screw - and the wrench is small enough to leave in place.
Here is the Y. I liked Jbolt's idea of using existing holes in the carriage rather than drilling and tapping additional ones. In my case, it sacrifices some carriage travel toward the tailstock end, which is easily changed if it becomes an issue.
And here are both axes with covers installed prior to affixing the cables.
Here is the machine - installed and ready for work.
And finally, the first chips - preparing a fresh tailstock alignment tool. The best way I can describe the feel of this machine compared to the others is to say it is like riding is somebody else's Lexus. I really look forward to getting to know the machine a lot better.