Unloading, setting up?

andrewgr

andrewgr

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I'm pretty serious about ordering a lathe and a mill in the coming months. We're getting quotes from electricians (we'll need a new panel, some rewiring in the house, and some outlets put in the garage), and I'm slowly getting rid of junk and organizing stuff in the garage to make room. (That's the distinction, by the way: junk is anything you decide to get rid of, stuff is everything you keep.)

Looking ahead, I don't have any device for lifting or moving something as heavy as a lathe or mill. The sum total of my "stuff-moving" equipment is a standard size dolly, and that's not gonna help. Also, I don't feel at all comfortable knowing how to take equipment out of the shipping container, or find the correct spot to place it.

Are these services available, either from Precision Matthews, or else from a shipping company or some other type of company I could hire locally?
 
How big are you going? I set up a Bridgeport with a Harbor Freight engine hoist and some pipe to roll it around on. Actual setup is going to be up to you. The delivery is usually via pallet jack, you can rent those pretty cheap to get you close. Then disassemble the shipping crate around the machine, and move into final position. Go slow, they can get tippy. With a little caution, it isn't too difficult.
 
Most guys figure out a way to make it happen once the equipment arrives. Those are relatively small machines and right on the edge of 'do it yourself' IMHO.

For absolutely zero stress, and considering you are in a major metropolitan area with a lot of manufacturing that uses such services you might get a quote from a machinery moving company ('machinery rigger') to unload and place your machines. They will have the experience, tools, equipment and most important: insurance to do it right and you just watch it happen.

Buying an engine hoist, machinery skates and maybe a pallet jack will cost you more than hiring the pros. You will eventually acquire these items but it's the manpower and experience that you're paying for.

I've had two lathes, a Wells-Index mill and other assorted 'stuff' done this way and my back didn't hurt a bit although the wallet was lightened somewhat. Worth every penny. I moved the ironworker myself. Never again! Lesson learned.

YMMV and all that ~

Stu
 
The PM-728-VT only tips the scales at a bit under 400 pounds. It is typically lifted with the head lowered and locked, and using the cloth lifting straps under the head. A Harbor Freight 1 ton engine hoist is more than sufficient. Right now they are out of stock on the pedestal which it bolts to, this means you would have to fabricate a steel table for it (unless you wait for restock). You won't want to use a wood table, as it will sag over time and change your "level". I have already ordered this model of Mill, so I have already figured this out. I will be welding up a steel table to support it.

The 1236T tips the scale at a bit under 900 pounds for just the Lathe. You might be able to use the same engine hoist IF the Boom is NOT fully extended... but then you have to figure out your lift points. Harbor Freight does sell a 2 ton engine hoist which would give more breathing room and safety margin (strongly recommended).
 
I have just bought a HF 2 ton engine hoist for my 1236T, which is on the way, actually just arrived in town this morning. The not so great thing is that I already owned that same hoist and sold it last year to save space, as I was not using it. This time, I'll keep it around because when you need something like that, it's hard to get around it. I did sell a bunch of other machinery to pay and make room for the lathe.

My workshop opens up only to the alley, and that's dirt. No pallet jack or engine lift is going to roll on that. So in order to take the crate from the curb, around the corner, down the alley, and into the garage, I bought 4x 10 inch wheels from HF, and I'm going to mount those to 2 simple 2-wheel pieces made out of 2x8. My plan is to lift the crate with the engine hoist (I was planning to use only a jack for that, but the hoist will be much better now that I have it) and insert the wheels on each end and tie them up, then just roll the whole thing and use the hoist again once it's in the garage.
 
The 2-ton engine hoist isn't too expensive, so I don't mind buying one. However, I've never used one, nor have I ever moved anything that's heavier than I could pick up myself (or with a friend) using any tool of any description. I think the chance that I'd screw something up and drop the lathe would be too high for me to want to take the chance. I guess I can start emailing some friends and acquaintances to see if any of them have experience using such a tool; if one of them is confident they know how to get it done, that might be the way to go. That being said, I really like gr8legs' suggestion of hiring someone that knows what they're doing. I'm sure I'll learn how to do all this stuff eventually, but it's a chicken/egg sort of situation, and I'd rather start with having my tools safely installed, then start with risking them.
 
LeChuck said:
I have just bought a HF 2 ton engine hoist for my 1236T, which is on the way, actually just arrived in town this morning. The not so great thing is that I already owned that same hoist and sold it last year to save space, as I was not using it. This time, I'll keep it around because when you need something like that, it's hard to get around it. I did sell a bunch of other machinery to pay and make room for the lathe.

My workshop opens up only to the alley, and that's dirt. No pallet jack or engine lift is going to roll on that. So in order to take the crate from the curb, around the corner, down the alley, and into the garage, I bought 4x 10 inch wheels from HF, and I'm going to mount those to 2 simple 2-wheel pieces made out of 2x8. My plan is to lift the crate with the engine hoist (I was planning to use only a jack for that, but the hoist will be much better now that I have it) and insert the wheels on each end and tie them up, then just roll the whole thing and use the hoist again once it's in the garage.
Click to expand...

I hate to throw water on this plan but those Harbor Freight wheels are likely to be a disappointment which may only become obvious once you've gotten to a particularly bad spot. What I would do is either use a pickup truck or rent a good trailer to move the lathe if you can't convince the driver to drop it directly into your shop. One other possibility if you're paying for liftgate service is putting some thick (3/4" min) plywood in front of your shop entrance to facilitate pallet jack maneuvering.

I moved a ~1500lb lathe with the help of a couple of forum members and a drop deck trailer a while back. Make sure you have good help, preferably someone who has done it before, and the right tools to get it done. If you can't get it dropped directly in your shop check with the local rental house about specialized dollies for what you're doing.

John
 
There are a bunch of videos showing what to expect moving equipment. If you don't feel up to it, hiring a pro is a good idea. And if they break it, they are on the hook. That's always nice. Whatever you do, enjoy your tools. Those are good choices.
 
I've got a PM 940 mill, and a 1236 lathe, think they tip the scales at about 1100 lbs each. I've got a 2 ton HF engine crane. Using a combination of a HF load leveler, and HF lifting straps, I've moved the mill and lathe into my shop, on the stands, with help of a friend the 1st time. Since, I've moved the lathe to the floor, to work on the stand, and reposition both lathe and mill. Most recent, Moved both onto a trailer for a 650 mile move, then just my wife and myself moving them both into the garage. The mill is on the stand, but the lathe is still on floor, awaiting. One thing that helped was a swivel (about $15. at HF)on the shop crane, so the load could be rotated to align on stands easily. Some short lengths of 2x4 or 4x4 for across the crane legs, gives a spot to rest the equipment while moving. I have also looped the lifting straps over the end of the crane arm, using C-Clamps so they could not slide off, or back, on the arm when lifting - this allowed the crane arm to be closer the the equipment. (YMMV)
 
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